The spring 2023 season of New York Fashion Week is officially underway. New York, the wild city provided an idyllic backdrop for stunning collections from some of the world’s most famous brands as well as an unexpected sanctuary for new ethereal collections from emerging designers. We got you sorted with a Mid-week Rundown of NYFW.
PROENZA SCHOULER
Waterfalls flowed down the marble walls of the early 20th-century Beaux-Arts building that showcased Proenza Schouler’s latest collection at New York Fashion Week.
In the Hall des Lumières, located in the old Emigrant Industrial Savings Bank Building, designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCullough developed a collection evoking their personal histories: “the sensuous and fiery qualities of Lazaro’s Latin roots coupled with the pragmatism and grit of Jack’s American experience blend to create a narrative at once effervescent and urban” the release states.
There was an unparalleled sense of freedom and clarity in this season’s collection as the designers opted for fluid materials roaming freely and a surge of ruffles cascading around the body, breaking into dynamic fringes that exaggerate the movement. With seamless silhouettes that resembled a second skin, Proenza Schouler emphasised its craftsmanship in the details; dramatic sleeves and pant bottoms ceded the limelight, reminiscent of traditional flamenco clothing.
Liberty is the universal theme of this collection, as the sheer skin-bearing designs allowed the natural curves of a woman’s body to define the garment itself.
Credit: Monica Feudi / Courtesy of Proenza Schouler
NO SESSO
Wearable works of art. No Sesso displayed a collection of opulent black sheer chiffon garments and ruched nylon dresses. This year simplicity was at the root of Davis and Randolph’s designs. The emphasis on skin was a running theme as models walked on the catwalk with cut-out pieces and low-hanging bralettes. There was a shaded mood to No Sesso’s spring collection, with dark colours dominating the runway.
Credit: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
REBECCA MINKOFF
Angels with an edge come to mind on the runway of Rebecca Minkoff; the designer’s clean palette is synonymous with the warm weather of spring. Ivory garments encrusted with silver studs and matching accessories accompanied the models strutting down the runway, looking ready for a concert.
Those looks showed how even subtle details can really stand out on a single-colour outfit. It seems as though the clothes were treated as a blank canvas for the designer to highlight the silver embellishments. Embroidered sleeves seem taller; cut-outs are more intimate, and tailoring takes on both classic and casual forms.
Minkoff’s designs cleverly blended rock star vibes with traditional spring streetwear- the biker-style jackets with structured lining hung over the models and were paired with form-fitting bottoms. This season denim was a preferred material for Minkoff’s collection.
COLLINA STRADA
Comprising a hazy pastel colour palette, earth tones and unconventional fabrics like weed, crochet and knitwear combined to make billowing silhouettes. Collina Strada presented an enchanting runway drawing on elements from nature.
“The world is changing, and so are you. You dress for the mess — print on print, layer on layer” when Collina Strada described her last year’s summer spring collection in New York. This year is no different, as the designer embraces the same chaotic energy in her styles for her spring 2023 ready-to-wear collection. Vibrant colours, bold patterns, and themes of nature and sustainability punctuated the runway. The designer is known for her eclectic style and mixing of fabrics. As the models walked in their layers of mismatched brightly coloured clothing, it was the floral patterns that took centre stage.
Mint-green dresses finished off with touches of pinks, yellows and browns gave a sense of a garden fairy theme. The designer’s final look, a Cinderella-style ballgown with tulle flower detailing, stole the limelight.
Credit: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
FE NOEL
The pieces featured in the Fe Noel runway served elegance, from body-hugging silk corsets and dresses to ruched sleeves. This Brooklyn designer’s works evoke the fashion of the Renaissance. This armlet sleeve might become a fashion trend for spring 2023, and Fe Noel’s was blooming with roses.
Yet, it was Noel’s final outfit that made a statement. Dubbed “The Dre$$”, the style was a corseted strapless gown with a ruffled petticoat, topped with a signature Fe Noel robe with voluminous sleeves and a 16-foot cathedral train — and it’s all made out of (artificial) money — $1.6 million to be exact. The dress symbolises economic hardship and highlights the 30% retirement savings gap between men and women.
With this dress, Fe Noel wanted to send a message about austerity measures and the disproportionate job and income losses suffered by women during the pandemic because of existing gender inequalities.
A beautiful show with a meaningful message.
Credit: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
FENDI
This is not just any handbag, but the beloved Baguette from Fendi, named after the French bread loaf and carried under the arm of discerning buyers for 25 years. On Friday night, the Fendi show celebrated the bag’s long-lasting fame and its birthday.
The collection displayed 53 looks, which seemed to be split into segments. In the first part of the show, models walked the catwalk sporting streetwear looks in neutral tones. The outfits looked to be inspired by spring/summer attire.
The second part displayed earthy tones as the models walked in brown and yellow autumnal jackets. Accessories were not limited at the Fendi show. Many of the looks were finished with boldly coloured beanies, knitted gloves and, of course, the well-known baguette bag.
As the show transitioned into its final phase, darker tones made their way onto the catwalk as the models appeared one by one in hues of navy. In a unique collaboration with Kim Jones, Marc Jacobs reimagined the Italian luxury brand with his personal touch. As a result, the collection features outsized proportions and bright New York City neons. The show ended with white winter looks featuring lime accents. The final set of models all wore oversized fur hats covering most of their faces.
Credit: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
ELENA VELEZ PATBO
At the heart of Elena Velez’s brand are family-run workshops and calm Wisconsin waters. Romantic dresses consist of smooth creams and sheer blacks that contrast sharply with the stainless steel bars she moulds into corsets and bra tops. The designer is known to have a unique style that is raw, industrial, and sensual.
Elena Velez specializes in making high fashion from scraps. The designer draws inspiration from her childhood, travelling across lakes on industrial ships. She often uses materials such as ship sails, rope from boats, and discarded metal in her pieces. This collection eludes to her childhood memories as the shapes of flowing waves are evoked in scrunched dresses wrapping around the models, taking their form. Formal structures and linings are prevalent in Velez’s collection. An off-white corset dress and white and black skin-bearing dress take the appearance of a ship’s sails and netting.
While always remaining delicate and feminine, there are clear references to ships and construction sites within her designs.
Bringing gorgeous fashion to the public through a deconstructed, anti-beauty approach.
Credit: Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
ECKHAUS LATTA
A harpist’s elegant strums accompanied models entering the stage wearing ultra-tonal textural knits, breezy see-through netted dresses, elaborate macrame-style tank tops, as well as beaded ornamentation on shirts and countless bubble-inspired statement makers. Eckhaus Latta’s collection – named after its designers’ visionaries Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta – quickly conveyed its message to its audience: Their style marches to its own drum.
There are 30 looks presented in Eckhaus Latta’s show, with unexpected yet unique textures standing out. This collection, however, is most notable for the knitted ensembles printed with Matthew Underwood’s artworks, a dear friend of Latta’s who died in 2019. A series of ribboned and foil assemblages exemplified Underwood’s legacy – one marked by a penchant for blending audio, electronic, and performance art.
Credit: Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
JASON WU
The elegant and minimalist aesthetic of Jason Wu continues for spring 2023.
In addition to his appreciation of craftsmanship and minimalist aesthetics, he is known for his timeless wardrobe essentials. This season was no different, from enchanting contemporary garments to red carpet-worthy gowns and midi-length tea dresses. A light and soft collection, the palette was mostly subdued apart from sparks of gold occasionally appearing. Liberating looks graced the opening of Wu’s show as the sheer garments wrapped around the models’ bodies, leaving little to the imagination. It was all about spaghetti straps and lingerie details, with streamers hanging from the straps of neat sheaths. Blooming floral patterns designed by the artist Leonardo Pucci disrupted the collection’s delicate aesthetic and added some edge to Jason Wu’s traditionally colder and paler palette.
Credit: Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
VICTOR GLEMAUD
A beach vibe radiated from Victor Glemaud’s collection. Despite the collection’s limited colour palette, each look had its own unique characteristics. The Haitian-American designer’s pieces were inspired heavily by Harbour Island; highlights of the show included black sheer cover-ups, a pink jumpsuit with keyhole cutouts with a stunning cape attached, and vibrant bikinis. There is also something noteworthy about the accessories. Various looks were paired with locally made “Rita Raffia” hats, which added a touch of elegance to the outfit. Using Jimmy Choo shoes in either flats or high heels, models strutted in David Yurman anklets subtly glistening.
Credit: Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
DION LEE
The master of structured lines and clean cuts. Once again, Dion Lee’s collection subverts the conventional notions of femininity and masculinity as the male models walked the runway in clothes that -at times- featured traditionally feminine attributes such as a beautiful pleated mini skirt with boots that stopped just below the knee. In control is the mood that fits this moment. The designer’s collection is clean-cut and minimalistic. Each model walks with a stern look and almost provoked expression, which perfectly matches the vibe of the clothes.
Credit: Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
ALICE + OLIVIA
Fiery. Floral. Denim. Disco. These are the word that comes to mind in Alice + Olivia’s 2023 collection. 24 looks are split into sections, each section containing three vibrant looks that use a similar colour palette; starting with blues, the designers created a beautiful dress that looks like it came out of a fairy tale—continuing into colours of desire, section two features red and white ensembles that are giving us business chic. Reaching the mid-section of their show, we feel as though we have been thrown into an ocean made entirely of flowers; floods of greens and pinks surround us. After the final floral outfit disappears, denim takes over the show. It’s clear that this design duo love to break the rules with the vast choice of fabrics and patterns that are displayed in this year’s collection. From garden party to disco-tech, the last set of outfits shone from a sparkling minidress to a black and white ballgown with a diamond-encrusted belt.
Credit: Courtesy of Alice + Olivia
PRABAL GURUNG
To those who are “often watched and monitored, scrutinized but unseen”,- Prabal Gurung’s collection was an ode to those whose rights are often taken advantage of. Models walked in vivid neon colours, metallics, and bondage looks on a stark white runway that made the designer’s garments stand out. The collection included a pink and red mini dress, jet black bodysuits with draped chiffon skirts, a white blazer over sheer chiffon trousers and an intricately detailed bralette. Stand-out pieces included a pair of sheer cobalt blue trousers which was paired with a chartreuse long-sleeve blouse that opened to reveal a black bralette that moved as the model walked on the runway. A lace embroidered dress that resembled a blooming peony flower and chiffon ballgowns; after witnessing these beautiful designs, the designer was tearful as he walked on the runway after his pieces of artwork, dedicated to all those unheard.
Credit: Photographer: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
SERGIO HUDSON
South Carolina designer Sergio Hudson, an emerging name in the fashion industry, has once again captured our gaze with his classic silhouettes. His collection continued similar techniques seen in his fall 2022 collection of bold, eye-catching prints, notably animal prints and feminine suits in calming pastel hues with a timeless appeal. Elegant silhouettes have become a staple for the designer’s brand. It is Hudson’s skill to construct feminine, structured pieces that complement the shape of women.
Credit: Photos taken from Harpers Bazaar Spain
Words by Chanelle Jassim
Header Image: @rebeccaminkoff
