The NYFW Diaries: Day One
New York Fashion Week started in full swing on Friday 9th September kicking off with designers
Proenza Schouler, No Sesso, Collina Strada, Fendi and Tia Adeola showcasing their
Spring/Summer 2023 ready-to-wear collections.
Got ultimate FOMO? Don’t worry we’ve got you, we’ll be covering everything from each day of
the must-see fashion event from across the globe so you don’t miss a thing. Here’s everything
you might have missed on day one from the city that never sleeps.
Proenza Schouler
Kicking off NYFW were Proenza Schouler designers, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez,
aka NYC’s fashion ‘It’ boys. The pair explored Latin flourishes – inspired by Hernandez’s roots,
fringing, crochet, sheer lace, bell bottoms and polka dots in a display of neutral tones.
Arca, a transgender musician from Venezuela, opened the show in a monochrome look
featuring a loose black tank, a white silk fringe and a bubble skirt.
Monica Feudi / Courtesy of Proenza Schouler
No Sesso
Second on the schedule was No Sesso. Designers Pia Davis and Autumn Randolph created a
dark, utilitarian and provocative mood for spring, emphasising baring skin – opening the show
with a sheer black asymmetric dress, as well as cutout cycling shorts, G-string lines and tiny
bralettes from the collection that left little to the imagination.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Collina Strada
Collina Strada’s collection displayed designer Hillary Taymour’s signature playfulness and Y2K
influence alongside a strong theme of romanticism and nature. Florals, crochet, organza and
lace fabrics created dreamy gowns, wide-leg trousers and elegant eveningwear in bright hues.
In an ode to nature, the show fittingly took place at the Naval Cemetery Landscape, which
houses a monarch butterfly preserve.
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Fendi
Designed by Marc Jacobs, Fendi’s Resort 2023 show was a fashion production like no other.
Celebrating the 25th anniversary of the Italian label’s Baguette bag, the Hammerstein Ballroom
was transformed into a party with A-list guests adorned in Fendi on the front row including Kim
Kardashian, Sarah Jessica Parker, Naomi Watts and Kate Moss – whose daughter Lila Moss
opened the show.
The collection featured sharp tailoring, oversized fits, long lengths and a bright palette in an
explosion of fashion and colour.
Model icon and face of Fendi, Linda Evangelista, ended the show in a Tiffany blue opera cape
with a silver Baguette bag.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Tia Adeola
The final show of the day was Tia Adeola which was dedicated to the legacy of one of her
long-lasting inspirations, Manfred Thierry Mugler. In a fresh and neutral colour palette, the
collection was romantic, feminine yet daring with embellishments, curve-hugging bodycons,
distressing and cutouts.
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
The NYFW Diaries: Day Two
Day two of New York Fashion Week (Saturday 10th September) saw a jam-packed schedule of
designers’ Spring 2023 ready-to-wear collections including Dion Lee, Tibi, Private Policy and
Marni. We’ve got the ultimate rundown of the runways from day two in the big apple to keep you
in the style know-how.
Altuzarra
Starting off the day, Josephs Altuzarra’s collection was inspired by psychedelic experiences
through trips into nature. The show started with preppy classics including striped shirts, cable
knit sweaters, boxy blazers and mini skirts. It then progressed to more relaxed bohemian style
dresses with prints and tie-dye inspired by the 60s.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Elena Velez
Dark, provocative and mysterious was the mood of Elena Velez’s show. With references to
BDSM, bondage and sexuality, the neutral cool-toned collection featured latex, strapping,
corsetry and metal structures in the 30 focused looks.
Alessandro Viero / Gorunway.com
Eckhaus Latta
Taking place in a scenic garden, Eckhaus Latta’s show evoked joy and peace following the
turmoil of the past few years. The collection featured a celebration of textures as well as
embellishments, metallic prints, netting and relaxed feminine silhouettes.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Jason Wu
Soft, subtle and elegant Jason Wu’s neutral collection was delicate with lingerie details, long
lengths, soft fabrics and lines which embodied feminity in a sense of relaxed glamour.
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Victor Glemaud
Taking place in Flipper’s Roller Boogie Palace, Victor Glemaud’s show was a spectacle with a
troop of skaters opening the show dressed in knitted shorts, joggers and ruffle-trimmed onesies.
The collection was inspired by American sportswear, featuring minimalist lines, sheer silk,
crochet, swimwear and monochrome looks in varying lengths.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Dion Lee
Taking place on an empty floor in a Hudson Yards building with a breathtaking view of the city’s
skyline, Dion Lee’s collection fused the perfect wardrobe for a day-to-night-to-day lifestyle with
cargos, knits and denim contrasting to the rave influences, mini skirts, leather separates and
slinky floor-length dresses. It was chic, sexy and inviting – just like New York.
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Tibi
Celebrating designer Amy Smilovic’s 25th anniversary, Tibi’s collection reflected Smilovic’s
sophisticated and clean personal style resembling 90s minimalism. Oversized tailored suits,
sheer fabrics and low waistlines headed the sensible collection perfect for office wear.
Prabal Gurung
Prabal Gurung’s show was a bold celebration of individuality, sexuality and a sense of
undoneness. The collection featured bright shades, sheer blouses, low waistlines and peeking
lingerie.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Sergio Hudson
Inspired by the funk, spirit and glamour of music icon Prince, Sergio Hudson’s seasonless
Collection 10 embraced bold colour blocking, loud leopard print, satin slip dresses, power suits
and big shoulder pads in a throwback to the 80s.
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Private Policy
Private Policy’s designer duo Siying Qu and Haoran Li were inspired by the modern-day
equivalents of the story of Noah’s Ark for their latest show. The collection reflected the pair’s
keen eye for clubwear with cutout tops, mini dresses, netting, bikinis as well as contrasting
utilitarian-style baggy denim and cargo pants embodying the ultimate Y2K aesthetic.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Marni
Marni’s much-awaited NYC debut was made by designer Francesco Risso. With a warm colour
palette inspired by the changing light throughout the day in the Italian countryside, the
minimalistic collection featured an abundance of textures, classically tailored jackets, flared
velvet jeans, knitwear, mini dresses, satin and leather gowns – a wardrobe fit for any occasion.
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
The NYFW Diaries: Day Three
The third day of New York Fashion Week (Sunday 11th September) saw a host of must-see
Spring 2023 ready-to-wear shows from designers including Studio 189, Who Decides War, and
Tommy Hilfiger to name a few. Missed it? Don’t worry we’ve all the news from the runway right
here.
Ulla Johnson
Kicking off the day was Ulla Johnson’s show, taking place at the Brooklyn Museum’s Beaux-Arts
Court. The colourful collection focused on occasionwear with relaxed feminine silhouettes and
handicrafts such as crochet, embroidery and looming.
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Studio 189
After starting the show with a dedication to the designer’s late father, Studio 189 designers
Abrima Erwiah and Rosario Dawson presented their entirely print-based collection titled
Mélange. A mixture of techniques including hand batik, weaving, patchwork, indigo dyeing and
basket weaving was used to create African-inspired garments in a celebration of cultures,
individuality, bright colours, textures and prints.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Sandy Liang
It was definitely back-to-school season at Sandy Liang’s show. Models embodied an ultimate
preppy-chic aesthetic in a neutral cool-toned collection inspired by school uniforms and 90s
minimalism with chunky loafers, satin ballet pumps, tiny bra tops, low waistlines and corsetry in
a relaxed fit.
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Khaite
Moody, dark and edgy was the impression from the Khaite show. Now one of New York’s ‘It’
brands, with a large celebrity and influencer cult following, designer Catherine Holstein had a lot
to live up to and she did not disappoint. The collection featured statement sharp-lined tailored
jackets, fringed body-skimming gowns, peasant skirts, bustiers and low waistlines with plenty of
python prints, sequins and silk fringing.
Courtesy of Khaite
Puppets & Puppets
Puppets & Puppets’ artist-turned-designer Carly Mark has turned her project into a renowned
brand in an impressive four years. Known for her eccentric designs, Carly’s show was inspired
by the film ‘Eyes Wide Shut’ – particularly Nicole Kidman’s savvy independent character. The
collection featured intricate, elegant yet bold eveningwear that would have you standing out
from the crowd.
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Alejandra Alonso Rojas’s show was hosted at Verōnika, the upscale restaurant at the
Fotografiska Museum on Park Avenue South. In collaboration with artist Philippine de
Richemont, the collection was elegant, romantic and uplifting with feminine silhouettes and
colour palettes, silky slip dresses, powerful prints, fringing and crochet.
Courtesy of Alejandro Alonso Rojas
Badgley Mischka
Romantic, feminine and elegant was the theme of the Badgley Mischka show. Designer duo
Mark Badgley and James Mischka drew inspiration from the colours of Moroccan cities for an
uplifting collection of eveningwear featuring dreamy gowns, sequin suits, voluminous ruffles,
delicate embroidery and feminine silhouettes.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Barragán
Edgy, rebellious, scandalous and sexy. Victor Barragán’s niche show was held in a reimagined
festival space surrounded by chaos – litter, bottles, graffiti and fake dollar bills. Featuring only
white models, the show was a nod to white culture and American capitalism with dollar bills,
briefcases, ties and shirts starring in the collection. The collection also had strong utilitarian
elements with leather, netting and tape as well as a rave culture theme with micro mini dresses
and low-slung waistlines.
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Who Decides War
Bringing the chilled Caribbean vibes to New York, designer duo Everard Best and Téla D’Amore
were inspired by their roots for their latest collection, unofficially named ‘Underwater’ in a nod to
climate change. The predominantly menswear collection featured bold colours and casual
streetwear with an edge.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Tommy Hilfiger
In a bid to reimagine the label’s signature preppy style, Tommy Hilfiger’s latest collection
featured sophisticated sharp suits, tailored trousers and smart dresses in neutral shades perfect
for the office.
Courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger
Luar
Cool, sharp and powerful – very New York, was the essence of the highly anticipated Luar show
held at the end of the day at The Shed. Designer Raúl Lopez was inspired for the collection by
his family gatherings as a child growing up in a Dominican family in Brooklyn. The line featured
both men’s and womenswear but held a strong masculine influence throughout with sharp lines,
enlarged shoulders, oversized fits, suits and crocodile skin full-length coats.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
The NYFW Diaries: Day Four
Monday 12th September hosted day four of New York Fashion Week with must-see Spring 2023
ready-to-wear shows such as Coach, Kim Shui and LaQuan Smith which provided a
much-needed abundance of colour to the greying city sky. Here’s everything you need to know
from across the globe.
Carolina Herrera
The day started joyously at The Plaza Hotel for Carolina Herrera’s show. Designer Wes Gordon
put on a cheerful display of voluminous frocks with beachy stripes and floral prints in sunshine
yellow and sky blue.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Veronica Beard
Veronica Beard also brought the sunshine to the big city with bright pastel shades and seaside
stripes in her tailored collection featuring sharp angle suit co-ords, mini skirts and flowing
sundresses perfect for a spring getaway.
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Maryam Nassir Zadeh
Maryam Nassir Zadeh kept it neutral and chic for her collection with parallels to 90s minimalism
and lingerie details creating a natural sense of undoneness and unapologetic femininity.
Madison Voelkel / Courtesy of Maryam Nassir Zadeh
Coach
With a star-studded guest list, Coach channelled a moody punk look with a preppy edge for the
latest collection featuring hardcore leather jackets, splattered knitwear and mini girly gingham
tea dresses.
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Bibhu Mohapatra
Keeping it classy, Bibhu Mohapatra’s collection showcased Oscar-worthy elegant gowns in
neutral tones with lace, sequins, silks and delicate embroidery.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Frederick Anderson
Fredrick Anderson added a dramatic flare to eveningwear in his sophisticated collection insisting
of satin slip dresses, fringed crochet gowns, enlarged peplum tops and tailored trousers in a
bright colour palette.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Priscavera
Priscavera’s show set New York temperatures soaring with designer Prisca Vera Franchetti’s
Y2K-influenced collection with an assortment of metallic micro skirts, tiny bra tops, low-slung
trousers and see-through mesh dresses.
Daniele Oberrauch
Kim Shui
Kim Shui’s decadent collection was fit for royalty with rich golds, silvers and silks with delicate
embroidery for an elegant selection of oriental-influenced eveningwear gowns.
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
LaQuan Smith
Presenting the final show of the day, LaQuan Smith was well worth the wait with his electric
collection of sexy eveningwear featuring shimmering sequin gowns, low-slung skirts and daring
cutouts in a scandalous display which fused Y2K with stylish glamour.
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
The NYFW Diaries: Day Five
Day five of Fashion Week in the big city (Tuesday 13th September) saw a host of colourful
shows from the likes of Tory Burch, Brandon Maxwell, Christian Cowan and Gabriela Hearst.
Missed out? Don’t worry we’ve got you covered with the rundown of the top runway looks from
all the designers’ Spring 2023 ready-to-wear collections – don’t say we don’t spoil you.
Snow Xue Gao
Starting off the day, Snow Xue Gao brought ultimate print power with a selection of intricate,
boldly-coloured Japanese-influenced mini dresses, skirts and jumpsuits perfect for a relaxed
Spring getaway.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Brandon Maxwell
Known for his glamorous New York-style partywear, Brandon Maxwell opted for a more subtle
approach for his latest collection with a sophisticated take on the Y2K style. As the sound of
birds chirping played throughout, models showcased mini dresses, relaxed wide-leg jumpsuits
and tailored oversized blazers with pastel hues, glitterball sequins and silky satins ready for a
night out in the city that never sleeps.
Monica Feudi / Courtesy of Brandon Maxwell
Parsons MFA
Parsons School of Design delivered a spectacle of a whooping 102 abstract looks made by
talented students which certainly made a show to remember. It was mad, chaotic yet
undoubtedly beautiful in a celebration which pushed the limits of fashion. Although maybe not
exactly wearable, the collection included extreme distressing and exaggerated proportions as
well as a multitude of techniques, textures and colours. A* marks!
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Adam Lippes
Inspired by his Egyptian travels, Adam Lippes’ collection featured an array of relaxed
silhouettes, ruffles, pleats, volume and intricate prints in soft tones.
Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com
Gabriela Hearst
Want to feel like a Greek goddess? Look to Gabriela Hearst’s latest heavenly collection of
golden gilded eveningwear featuring a feminine array of full-length body-skimming gowns,
tailored suits, silk knit dresses, gold thread embroidery and bold prints in warm tones. As if the
show couldn’t get more divine, a gospel choir sang throughout along the side of the runway,
creating an atmosphere of pure bliss.
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Bach Mai
Bach Mai drew inspiration from the trapeze line Yves Saint Laurent introduced at Christian Dior
in 1958, with the collection focusing on creating shape. It consisted of voluminous, pleated,
lengthy skirts in a selection of smart tweeds, foiled metallic materials and sheer floaty fabrics.
Amber Gray / Courtesy of Bach Mai
Adeam
Adeam’s designer Hanako Maeda brought the sunshine to New York with a holiday-ready
collection of feminine sundresses adorned with flamboyant ruffles and puff sleeves in a selection
of bright colours and ditsy prints.
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Bevza
Bevza’s show held an important message, inspired by designer Svitlana Bevza’s experience as
one of the over 10 million Ukrainians who fled their homes when Russia invaded the country
over six months ago. Starting with a moment of silence for Ukrainian lives lost during the war,
the show presented a muted collection produced by an entirely Ukrainian team featuring
utilitarian leather garments, breast-plated gowns and distressing which was also inspired by one
of the biggest issues affecting Ukraine right now: the wheat crisis.
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Maisie Wilen
Maisie Wilen brought a sense of the eccentric with a collection featuring psychedelic geometric
prints, provocative catsuits and Y2K micro skirts and baby tees.
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Peter Do
Cool, sophisticated and edgy was the impression of Peter Do’s collection consisting of
masculine silhouettes, sharp-cut jackets, loose-fitting shirt dresses and straight-fit midi skirts in a
selection of leather, chiffon and mesh fabrics.
Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com
Jonathan Simkhai
Jonathan Simkhai kept it fresh with a day-to-night collection fit for a hustling New Yorker. The
show featured sharp tailored suits ready for businesses as well as sultry and sparkling evening
dresses for a night out in the big city.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Tory Burch
Sleek and streamlined, Tory Burch’s collection was inspired by 90s wardrobes with low-slung
waistlines, masculine silhouettes, mesh tops with lingerie peaking through, relaxed tailored
jackets and trousers for the ultimate cool city-girl aesthetic.
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Christian Cowan
Christian Cowan ended the day with a bang. The show, inspired by his youthful nights in
London, was a carnival of bright bold colours, loud prints and exaggerated proportions for a wild
and provocative collection of partywear.
Daniele Oberrauch
The NYFW Diaries: Day Six
The sixth and final day of New York Fashion Week (Wednesday 14th September) finished the
event in style with must-see Spring 2023 ready-to-wear collections from Michael Kors, Tom
Ford, Batsheva, Aliétte and many more.
Missed it? Don’t worry we’ve covered every day of Fashion Week to keep you up-to-date in the
fashion game.
Batsheva
At Ben’s Kosher Deli, Batsheva Hay started off the day switching it up, moving away from her
usual “Laura Ashley” “frumpy garments” (she told Vogue) towards a sexy 70s-inspired collection
featuring more skin, PVC dresses, low-slung midi skirts, micro minis and crop tops yet there still
remained a strong array of girly ditsy prints.
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Michael Kors
Sophisticated, sexy, sleek and streamlined was the vibe of Michael Kors’ day-to-night collection
inspired by American 70s fashion icons. The show featured low-slung waistlines, daringly high
slit skirts, cool wide-leg tailored trousers and dazzling floor-length gowns – a wardrobe perfect
for the bustling bright-light city.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Deveaux
Making a return to the runway after three years, Deveaux’s designer Andrea Tsao took
inspiration from workwear for a collection featuring oversized masculine silhouettes, tailored
shirts and trousers, cool mesh fabrics and trendy cargos fit for the office.
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Kenneth Nicholson
Unlike his usual romantic themes, Kenneth Nicholson also found inspiration in corporate office
life, with his show taking place in an office building in the Financial District as the sounds of
clanging keyboard keys and printers welcomed the guests. The collection was a journey through
a typical working day – beginning with sleepy pyjama-clad models, followed by sharp tailored
suits, newspaper-print garments and slinky ravewear.
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Aliétte
Aliétte designer Jason Rembert brought the fairytale to New York in his show presented at the
charming vintage Georgia Room in Manhattan with the gentle sounds of birds chirping over
whimsical versions of R&B and rap tracks including Khia’s 2001 hit ‘My Neck, My Back’. Nature
played a large influence with grassy textures, slinky satin dresses and voluminous gowns fit for
a princess.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Wiederhoeft
Jackson Wiederhoeft certainly didn’t hold back with his punk-inspired, eccentric, rebellious
designs featuring a range of extravagant garments with bright colours, prints, exaggerated
proportions, provocative mesh materials and a distinct dramatic flare.
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Theophilio
Theophilio’s designer Edvin Thompson brought a sense of nostalgia with a sexy yet comfortable
take on the Y2K style of his youth. The collection featured trendy baby tees, low-slung waistline
trousers and sequined mini dresses in an array of mesh, metallic, high-vis and leather materials
fit for a throwback club night.
Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Markarian
A state of serenity transcended on Markarian’s runway, presenting designer Alexandra O’Neill’s
collection of romantic feminine dresses with sweetheart necklines, off-the-shoulder fits, flowing
hemlines and soft shades.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Willy Chavarria
Willy Chavarria took us to church with his Catholic-themed menswear collection featuring
exaggerated proportions, oversized fits, sharp suits, lengthy skirts, Peter Pan collars and casual
jerseys.
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Tom Ford
With the pressure of closing Fashion Week, Tom Ford did not disappoint. A room packed with
celebs, including Madonna, Chris Rock and Ciara, witnessed the dazzling display of his
signature sexy style. The collection featured sultry black lace lingerie, hardcore leather jackets,
sharp suits and blinding sequins gowns made for the bright-light big city.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Words by Emily Hemsley
Header graphics by Jing Toh
