New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 dazzled with an eclectic mix of collections, each telling its own story of creativity, craftsmanship, and contemporary style. From the minimalist elegance of Proenza Schouler and Tory Burch to the daring theatrics of Christian Cowan and Kim Shui, designers showcased a broad spectrum of aesthetics and visions. Ralph Lauren delivered his signature blend of timeless Americana with a luxurious twist, while Alaïa made a striking impact with its sculptural silhouettes and celebration of femininity. Willy Chavarria presented a powerful narrative of inclusivity and resilience through oversized cuts and vivid hues, while Off-White redefined streetwear with its deconstructed tailoring and graphic prints. Sergio Hudson’s glamorous approach shone through bold colours and sophisticated cuts, and Coach offered a nostalgic yet fresh take on urban street style. Khaite’s collection balanced urban edge with sensual sophistication, while Brandon Maxwell leaned into soft tailoring and relaxed silhouettes to embody a romantic spirit. Together, these collections painted a vivid picture of fashion’s current landscape—one where innovation meets tradition, and every design tells a story.
Ralph Lauren: A Return To Glamorous Americana
Ralph Lauren marked his return to NYFW with a show that was a celebration of classic American style infused with an elevated, glamorous edge. Staged in Brooklyn, the collection showcased Lauren’s signature mix of preppy staples and opulent eveningwear.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C_k908UANae/?hl=en&img_index=1
Standout Looks: The collection featured a range of styles, from classic denim and tailored blazers to gold-sequined gowns and silk evening dresses. The collection housed a mixture of neutrals along with bold, signature RL colours such as green, orange, and blue. A standout moment was a white, crochet halter top and lace skirt, embodying timeless elegance, paired with statement jewellery and oversized belts that nodded to Western motifs. The collection emphasised Lauren’s ability to merge heritage Americana with a modern sensibility, creating a runway full of quintessential, luxurious pieces.
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/ralph-lauren#gallery-collection
Willy Chavarria: A Bold Political Statement
Willy Chavarria’s show was one of the most talked-about events of NYFW. Known for his streetwear with a social conscience, Chavarria continued to explore themes of cultural identity, inclusion, and activism.Chavarria chose a disused bank on New York’s Wall Street, a potent symbol of American power and wealth, to present his latest collection, titled ‘América’.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C_tQK8oy9WY/?hl=en&img_index=1
Standout Looks: The Spring/Summer 2025 collection featured oversized silhouettes, sharp tailoring, and powerful statements through graphic prints and slogans. With a very utilitarian, sportswear theme to the collection, looks consisted of cargo trousers, pockets, keys attached to belt loops, sports jackets, and Adidas logos. One of the standout pieces was a pair of voluminous black trousers, worn with a black sports jersey, and powerful, white shirt collar peeking over the top, delivering a strong message of empowerment and an ode to the theme of Americana and the mix of sportswear and formal wear. Another notable look was a long, sheer dress with frills as the sleeves and collar, a simple yet elegant look, made more striking when modelled on a male model down the runway.
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-menswear/willy-chavarria#gallery-collection
Kim Shui: A Fusion Of East And West
Kim Shui delivered a dynamic collection that blended her multicultural background with a contemporary edge. Known for her sexy, body-hugging silhouettes and eclectic prints, the designer did not disappoint.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C_q6gCWyesc/?hl=en&img_index=1
Standout Looks: The collection featured a vibrant mix of fabrics, colours, and textures, including silk, mesh, and lace. A standout look was a satin, off-the-shoulder corset adorned with floral motifs, blending Eastern influences with modern street style. Another memorable outfit was a brow, leather, lace-up look consisting of a cut-out, cap sleeve top and flared, lace-up sided trousers, seen in both a male and female version on the runway, highlighting the designer’s signature fusion of femininity and power.
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/kim-shui#gallery-collection
Off-White: A New Era Of Streetwear Luxury
Off-White’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, under the creative direction of Ibrahim Kamara, pushed the boundaries of streetwear while maintaining the brand’s signature edgy aesthetic. The show was a celebration of urban style, with a focus on tailoring, deconstruction, and bold, graphic elements. Set in the Basketball courts of Brooklyn, singers Zayn Malik, Mary J. Blige and Camila Cabello and model Alessandra Ambrosio, flocked to the waterfront for the show.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C_wCIC5NGE8/?hl=en&img_index=1
Standout Looks: The collection featured oversized blazers, cutout dresses, and trench coats with unexpected details. A standout piece was a monochrome look featuring a deconstructed trench coat with dramatic, asymmetric sleeves paired with wide-legged trousers. Another highlight was a series of graffiti-covered leather jackets and metallic pants, emphasizing the brand’s ability to merge streetwear with luxury fashion.
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/off-white#gallery-collection
Sergio Hudson: Glamorous Power Dressing
Sergio Hudson’s collection was a masterclass in power dressing, with a glamorous twist. The designer, known for his polished, feminine silhouettes, delivered a lineup that paid homage to 1980s and 1990s fashion icons while infusing modern sensibilities.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C_v2HvnRtKc/?hl=en&img_index=1
Standout Looks: The collection featured vibrant colours, sharp tailoring, and bold shoulders. One of the standout looks was a bright pink short suit with exaggerated shoulders and a cinched waist, paired with a metallic pink blouse. Another memorable piece was a floor-length, sequined gown in lavender, evoking a sense of old Hollywood glamour while remaining fresh and contemporary.
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/sergio-hudson#gallery-collection
A Tribute To The Alaïa Woman
The collection was a love letter to the “Alaïa woman,” known for her strength, sensuality, and sophistication. Mulier stayed true to the brand’s heritage by focusing on body-conscious silhouettes, exquisite tailoring, and meticulous craftsmanship. The collection showcased an array of luxurious fabrics and textures, from the classic stretch knit that Alaïa is renowned for to innovative materials like perforated leather, sheer organza, and silk jersey. Mulier played with transparency and layering, using fabrics that moved fluidly against the body while maintaining structure. This exploration of texture added depth to the collection, creating visual interest and highlighting the brand’s artisanal roots. Each piece was a testament to the house’s commitment to celebrating the female form, with designs that highlighted curves, accentuated waistlines, and draped elegantly over the body.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C_qmsnFp59D/?hl=en&img_index=2
Standout Looks: The show opened with a series of monochrome looks in Alaïa’s signature black, featuring sleek, sculpted dresses that hugged the body and flowed gracefully with every step. One of the standout pieces was a white, cut-out, ruched dress with a strapless neckline and high-low hemline, cinched at the waist to emphasize an hourglass silhouette. Another striking look was a black, intricately knitted, voluminous dress with strategic cutouts that revealed hints of skin, creating a balance between modesty and sensuality.
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/azzedine-alaia#gallery-collection
Christian Cowen: A Modern Whodunnit
Christian Cowan’s Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection was a showstopper at New York Fashion Week, bringing his signature flair for drama, fun, and unapologetic glamour to the runway. Known for dressing pop icons like Lady Gaga and Cardi B, Cowan once again delivered a collection that was all about bold, eye-catching pieces designed for those who love to make a statement. The collection was a murder mystery-meets-Carrie Bradshaw affair, inspired by the horrors and whodunnits Cowan had watched, with the models sporting a flapper-style, black bob haircut and 1920’s inspired makeup with thin brows and brow-bone highlight. Cowan opted for black, silver, and cobalt blue palette, showcasing some powerhouse tailoring and creativity with different materials and cutouts.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C_yBOoexAP7/?hl=en&img_index=1
Standout Looks: Looking at Cowan’s flare for tailoring, one of the standout looks offered a black, satin, 3-piece suit, consisting of a long-line blazer with exaggerated white cuffs, straight-leg trousers, and a lacey, micro-bralette – adding a touch of the feminine to an otherwise masculine ensemble. Another look we saw grace the runway was a satin, cobalt suit, with a cravat and metal rose fastening the suit – a detail that Cowan himself chose to wear during his appearance at the end of the show.
https://www.instagram.com/christiancowan/?hl=en
Coach: A Playful Tribute To Classic America
For Spring 2025, Coach creative director Stuart Vevers delivered a collection that beautifully blended the brand’s heritage with a fresh, modern twist. The show was a celebration of classic Americana, presented with a playful and youthful edge that has become synonymous with Vevers’ tenure at the iconic American fashion house. Staged against the backdrop of a sunny day in New York City, the collection evoked a sense of optimism, freedom, and casual cool. Vevers took inspiration from Coach’s roots, reimagining vintage Americana through a contemporary lens. The collection drew on the codes of American sportswear—denim, leather, and varsity jackets—infused with a youthful spirit and a hint of nostalgia. The designs played with proportion and layering, mixing oversized silhouettes with more tailored pieces to create a dynamic and versatile wardrobe. Vevers continued his exploration of diverse textures and materials, blending traditional fabrics with unexpected finishes. The collection featured an array of materials, from soft knits and lightweight cottons to luxe leathers and denims, all contributing to the tactile appeal of the pieces. This mix of textures created a sense of depth and richness that felt both elevated and approachable.
Standout Looks: One of materials we saw frequently used in the Coach show was brown leather, an ode to the 1940’s US army uniform. The utilitarian look cropped up throughout the runway, seen in jackets, skirts, trousers, and blazers. Even the classic aviator-style jacket was seen, paired with a satin, brown dress. Again, with a strong reference of Americana, we saw denim flood the Coach show, with classic denim jackets, high-cut jeans, even paired together in a y2k-inspired double denim look!
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/coach#gallery-collection
Brandon Maxwell: A Redefined Exploration Of Femininity And Modernity
Brandon Maxwell’s Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection, showcased at New York Fashion Week, was a masterclass in understated elegance and modern sophistication. Known for his clean lines, luxurious fabrics, and effortless chic, Maxwell delivered a collection that felt both refined and refreshingly contemporary. With a focus on wearability and elevated basics, the designer presented a lineup that was versatile, timeless, and imbued with a sense of quiet confidence. Maxwell’s Spring 2025 collection centred around soft tailoring and fluid silhouettes, capturing a sense of ease and movement. The designer skilfully balanced structure with softness, presenting pieces that draped elegantly on the body while maintaining a polished and refined aesthetic. There was a noticeable focus on comfort and practicality, with relaxed fits and lightweight fabrics that allowed for easy layering. At the core of Maxwell’s Spring 2025 collection was a celebration of modern femininity. The designer played with a mix of structured and soft shapes, emphasizing both strength and grace. The collection was filled with pieces that felt effortlessly chic, empowering women through clothing that is as comfortable as it is stylish.
https://www.instagram.com/brandonmaxwell/?hl=en
Standout Looks: A standout ensemble featured a textured white crop top paired with a high-waisted midi skirt, both crafted from a woven fabric that added a tactile element to the minimalist silhouette. Another memorable look was a floor-length silk gown in a soft purple with a subtle sheen, catching the light with every step. A cashmere-knit cardigan in a soft camel colour layered over a slip dress also drew attention, underscoring the collection’s emphasis on fabric quality and luxurious comfort.
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/brandon-maxwell#gallery-collection
Tory Burch: A Minimalist Ode To Elegance And Ease
Tory Burch’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection at New York Fashion Week was a masterful exploration of minimalist elegance and modern femininity. Known for her refined take on American sportswear, Burch presented a collection that emphasized clean lines, understated luxury, and effortless style. The show reflected a subtle yet powerful shift towards simplicity and sophistication, showcasing the designer’s talent for balancing practicality with timeless appeal. The collection embraced minimalism with a distinctly feminine touch, featuring streamlined silhouettes that were both sleek and fluid. Burch focused on a pared-back aesthetic, using carefully selected fabrics and precise tailoring to create pieces that exuded a quiet confidence. The designs celebrated the art of simplicity, with an emphasis on comfort and wearability. Burch experimented with proportions and silhouettes, offering a range of styles that moved effortlessly from fitted to voluminous. The collection included a mix of tailored pieces, such as fitted jackets and structured skirts, alongside more fluid, relaxed shapes like oversized shirts and flowing maxi dresses. This dynamic interplay of silhouettes added versatility and a sense of movement to the collection.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C_vtNnYu4uT/?hl=en&img_index=1
Standout Looks: The collection opened with a series of monochromatic looks in neutral tones, such as ivory, beige, and soft grey, setting a tone of relaxed elegance. A standout look featured a brown, tailored, wrap over blazer worn over a long, flowing trousers, epitomising Burch’s approach to modern suiting. Another highlight was a utility jacket in a warm caramel hue, with a contrast trim and high-neck design, paired with white, tailored trousers – showcasing a beautiful colour palette and attention to detail.
https://www.instagram.com/toryburch/?hl=en
Khaite: A Celebration Of Urban Edge And Feminine Power
Khaite’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, showcased at New York Fashion Week, continued creative director Catherine Holstein’s exploration of duality in modern womenswear: the tension between structure and fluidity, masculinity and femininity, and the interplay of hard and soft. Known for its distinct fusion of understated luxury and cool, contemporary edge, Khaite delivered a collection that was both polished and raw, embodying the spirit of the modern woman. The collection played with contrasts, balancing strength with sensuality in a way that felt both empowering and seductive. Holstein showcased sharply tailored blazers, structured trench coats, and sleek trousers alongside softer, more fluid pieces like slip dresses, sheer knits, and flowing skirts. This dynamic interplay created a sense of movement and versatility, catering to women who effortlessly shift between different roles and styles. Holstein’s meticulous attention to fabric and texture was evident throughout the collection. The designer combined rich, tactile materials—leather, chiffon, silk, cashmere, and cotton—layered in unexpected ways to create depth and dimension. The result was a collection that felt both luxurious and approachable, exuding a sense of quiet confidence and understated elegance.
Standout Looks: A buttery-soft, silk, two-piece shirt and trouser set in a burgundy hue, featuring a tailored neckline and button up detail, stood out as a highlight, embodying the collection’s focus on minimalism and elegance. Another memorable piece was a silk, heavily ruched top in a subtle gold shade, layered over sheer, chiffon trousers in the same colour demonstrated a masterful blend of light materials. A simple, oversized leather jacket, styled with a white tee and a sheer, pinstriped maxi skirt, showcased Holstein’s skill in elevating everyday basics with luxurious textures.
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/khaite#gallery-collection
Proenza Schouler: A Fusion Of Artful Minimalism And Modern Femininity
Proenza Schouler’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, presented at New York Fashion Week, was a sophisticated exploration of artful minimalism and contemporary femininity. Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez offered a lineup that celebrated clean lines, meticulous craftsmanship, and thoughtful detailing, all while retaining the brand’s signature edge. The collection highlighted a refined yet dynamic approach to modern dressing, focusing on versatility, comfort, and understated elegance. The collection showcased a variety of architectural silhouettes, blending sharp tailoring with softer, fluid shapes that created a harmonious balance. The designers played with proportions and structure, delivering looks that moved effortlessly between fitted and voluminous. The result was a series of garments that felt modern, wearable, and uniquely Proenza Schouler. The collection emphasized Proenza Schouler’s commitment to detail and craftsmanship. McCollough and Hernandez used subtle embellishments, such as delicate pleating, fringe details, and hand-stitched elements, to elevate simple shapes into something truly special. These thoughtful touches provided a sense of movement and texture without overwhelming the minimalist aesthetic.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C_iquJeOHPb/?hl=en&img_index=1
Standout Looks: Stripes were heavy on this runway, amongst the stripes we saw, a favourite was a blue and white, striped maxi dress with a slash neckline and a frayed, torn hemline. This detail of fraying occurred frequently throughout the show, particularly in their knitted designs. Another standout was a textured, fringed, high-low skirt in a neutral ivory, paired with a crisp, oxford shirt in white. This look also featured in black, showcasing a contrasting design between masculinity and femininity. A leather trench coat worn over a midi dress, with a pop of bright fuchsia feathers blended softness with structure.
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/proenza-schouler#gallery-collection
The Spring/Summer 2025 shows at New York Fashion Week celebrated a season of contrasts, where bold statements met subtle sophistication and traditional craftsmanship aligned with avant-garde experimentation. Each designer, from Ralph Lauren’s timeless American elegance to Alaïa’s sculptural artistry, brought a unique perspective to the runway, capturing the multifaceted nature of modern fashion. Collections like those from Proenza Schouler and Tory Burch focused on minimalist refinement, while Christian Cowan and Kim Shui pushed the boundaries with bold, extravagant designs. Willy Chavarria and Off-White challenged conventions with socially charged and street-inspired aesthetics, and Coach infused contemporary street style with a nostalgic twist. The shows of Sergio Hudson and Khaite offered a celebration of colour and texture, balancing luxury with everyday wearability. As NYFW draws to a close, the collections collectively highlight a commitment to creativity, innovation, and the celebration of individuality, setting an inspiring tone for the fashion seasons ahead.
Written By Bethan Gwynne
