In a dimly lit room at Jean Paul Gaultier’s legendary Paris headquarters, Ludovic de Saint Sernin opened his debut couture show for the maison with a scream a theatrical harbinger of the breathtaking journey ahead. As waves of anticipation swept through the audience, including Megan Thee Stallion, Jennie Kim, and Rick Owens, the young designer unveiled Le Naufrage “The Shipwreck”, a collection that blended Gaultier’s iconic sensuality with his own raw edge.
De Saint Sernin, the eighth and youngest guest designer to helm Gaultier’s couture line since his 2020 retirement, reimagined the house’s maritime DNA with audacious storytelling. Drawing on Gaultier’s treasure trove of signatures, from cone bras to sailor motifs, the designer delivered a collection steeped in subversive sensuality and unabashed glamour. Inspired by Disney’s The Little Mermaid and a 1997 Gaultier headpiece resembling a ship, de Saint Sernin charted a course through myth, fantasy, and high fashion.
The show opened with a sea-green corseted gown adorned with shimmering scales, evoking a sultry mermaid washed ashore. The narrative unfolded with pieces that told their own stories: gowns resembling ship sails tied with ropes, a headpiece shaped like a ship’s silhouette, and latex ensembles embossed with crocodile textures. Rope-like pleated jersey voile, glimmering tartan, and an astonishing 50,000 brass pearls captured the untamed chaos and opulence of the sea.
For all its theatricality, de Saint Sernin’s collection also honoured the artisanal craftsmanship that defines haute couture. Feathers appeared waterlogged, chiffon was pleated to mimic waves, and traditional techniques merged with bold experimentation. The result? A line-up that felt as nostalgic as it was revolutionary.
Fashion’s most celebrated muses brought Le Naufrage to life on the runway. Paloma Elsesser, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, and Alex Consani embodied characters in the designer’s shipwrecked tale a pirate, a sailor, a siren each captivating the audience with a singular sense of allure.
The designer’s vision extended beyond the runway, capturing the irreverent spirit of Gaultier while injecting his own brand of “sensual but sophisticated, slutty but classy” allure. “I wanted to tell a story that feels like a unique experience, where every look transports you into a new world,” de Saint Sernin said.
The grand finale saw de Saint Sernin join Gaultier on the runway for a heartfelt embrace, a symbolic passing of the torch. Whether Le Naufrage marks the final chapter in Gaultier’s guest designer experiment remains uncertain, but one thing is clear: Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s couture debut has set a daring new benchmark for storytelling and innovation in high fashion.
With Le Naufrage, de Saint Sernin didn’t merely honour Jean Paul Gaultier’s legacy, he redefined it, penning a bold new chapter in the maison’s storied history.
Words By Claire Gaura
