At the ever-iconic London Fashion Week fresh, new talent and designer veterans alike have taken to the runways to showcase their SS25 collections, and this September, London has really had its’ moment in the sun. The very best of British designers have showcased their labels and demanded our attention this week, and in a celebration of Britain’s finest, here we explore 13 notable designers from the catwalks, delving into their inspiration, inclusivity agenda, and revolutionary talent straight from one of the fashion capitals of the world.
Karoline Vitto
Known for celebrating the natural female form in the most thoughtful way possible, Karoline Vitto has continued to celebrate curves and accentuate folds in her LWF show. While some designers dress plus size models as an afterthought, Karoline Vitto has always had curvy queens at the heart of her label, designing clothes to empower every woman and every body type as a rebellion to the restrictive beauty standards of ‘90s Brazil, where she grew up. Placing the body at the centre of the design process, these SS25 designs for LFW are bold, unforgettable, and unapologetic in their celebration of curvy and plus size models, really showcasing how beautiful their runway is.
Encapsulating an earth tone palette with pops of pink and red scattered throughout, what sets Karoline Vitto apart is the ambitious cut-outs in the pieces, utilising the body itself as an integral piece of the design. Often seen accompanying the cut outs are pops of silver wiring, highlighting and drawing attention to the skin, daring you to look away, and knowing you can’t.
Influencer and plus size model Felicity Hayward has also expressed her love for Karoline Vitto this LFW, seen wearing a gifted dress by the designer to attend the show, and taking to Instagram to express how emotional she is to see
the front row full of plus size guests, explaining ‘do you know how important this is for us?’ and thanking Karoline Vitto for ‘making [her] feel seen’.
Chet Lo
With ambitious texture at its core, Chet Lo has again been showcasing his extensive knitwear knowledge through his SS25 show at LFW. The 3D textured spikes in knitted fabrics take centre-stage in a grey-scale colour palette accompanied by pops of blue, teal, and duck egg in a perfect homage to a pastel spring season in 2025.
But the fashion isn’t all we’re praising Chet Lo for this September, with the designer revolutionising fashion shows for the blind and visually impaired. Previously, visually impaired fashion fans have been an afterthought with runways being such a visual expereince. But working with non-profit Hair & Care, an organisation supporting visually impaired women care for their hair, Chet Lo was able to develop a third runway show, featuring a prerecorded audio description of the garments along with a tactile tour of the collection 30 minutes prior to the show commencing, to allow guests to take in and digest the information before providing textured fabric swatches to experience during the show. 20 blind / visually impaired guests were invited to the show and expressed their love and gratitude to Chet Lo for this unforgettable experience. Having always been very inclusive with the casting, Chet Lo explained that the show “felt like a natural extension to that”.
HARRI
Breaking the mould both socially and literally is HARRI with bold new silhouettes in their signature black latex stealing the show at LFW. The bold dom style is all about expressing innovative takes on structure and form, creating a visually explorative catwalk seeking to revolutionise conventional body shape in a celebration of the weird and wonderful. Awarded the Practical
Intelligent Genius Foundation prize, the Indian born artist behind the label has once again showed that style knows no bounds in the SS25 show.
From Harri’s passion for bodybuilding his experimental take on form takes shape and illustrates how one’s form should be highlighted and accentuated as a pledge to non-conformity.
Nensi Dojaka
Bringing sexy back is the exceptional Nensi Dojaka, who has been perfecting her craft since the label’s debut in 2019, with her LFW SS25 catwalk. Specialising in intricate strap work and use of sheer fabrics, pieces expertly portray how lingerie washed in luxury can empower the wearer and expertly showcase the feminine form. In a balance of strength and delicacy, the runway was hot with nude tones, earthy burgundies, and subtle pinks to celebrate nudity in their collaboration with design powerhouse, Calvin Klein. Dojaka’s signature juxtaposition of delicate fabrics, muted colours, and daring silhouettes can be seen on their runway this fashion week
Nensi Dojaka’s background in architecture is more apparent than ever in her designs this week through the use of geometric strap work, casting shapes and shadows across chest and torso in a labyrinth of sensuality. Dojaka has also been outspoken in her advocacy for inclusion, with “the idea of putting [the pieces] on women of different backgrounds and different shapes” being imperative to decision making, and the image of the campaign.
Di Petsa
Aphrodite was born of the seafoam, rising out of the water on the shore of Cyprus, and Greek designer Dimitra Petsa knows the birth of beauty herself all too well. In the bold exploration of an ecofeminist relationship between women and water, design powerhouse Di Petsa has shown London what it means to live on Olympus this LFW. The brand’s ethos is the careful combination of
traditional craftsmanship, sustainable textile development, and drapery techniques with performance, art, and film to build timeless, ethereal pieces that last the test of time.
Their SS25 collection, showed at LFW, takes their signature mermaid- esque look and combines it with a warmer colour palette to move their siren aesthetic toward a more goddess-centred look. Focusing on experimental cut- outs, gold accessories, warm tones, and denim Di Petsa are making waves with their new terrain while staying true to their wet roots and fluid fabric.
Stealing the show was influencer and plus size male model, James Corbin, who beautifully debuted Di Petsa’s male wear collection. Looking as though he rose from the sea foam himself, Corbin was draped in Di Petsa’s signature Wetlook fabric, coloured in a warm blend of orange, pink, and maroon tones exquisitely complimenting his rich skin tone. While runways have taken amazing strides in body inclusivity for women, plus size male models are unfortunately still a rarity, but there is no one better to lead the movement than James Corbin who so expertly took to the catwalk and walked for men everywhere.
Masha Popova
In their SS25 collection, Impulse, grunge experts Masha Popova have expertly combined sensuality with playful draping in an oxymoronic collection that is both elegant and care-free. Ukrainian designer Popova has fused fantasy with her Ukrainian roots in an homage to her childhood memories in a collage of modern high fashion and raw energy of the ‘90s and early 2000s. The SS25 collection was a masterclass in denim, tie-dye, and acid wash, using her signature faded denim textile and complementary muted colours in a beautifully retro aesthetic.
Sinead Gorey
School is in session, and we’re all invited to the LFW school disco which quickly became the talk of the cafeteria. In a runway situated in a sports hall lined with streamers and balloons, the class of SS25 graced the runway in pastels, stripes, and high tops in an aesthetic that can only be described as where preppy meets grunge. Inspired by party culture, Gorey shares her love for bold prints, extreme cutouts, and youthful colours in a rave aesthetic that reminds the audience that fashion is supposed to be fun! Her use of plaid, stripes, and laces are also reminiscent of our school days in a style that Avril Levine herself would be proud of.
And like so many others this LFW, Sinead Gorey understands the importance of body inclusion and has incorporated many body shapes and sizes into her runway. Remining the audience that there is no ‘one size fits all’ in creativity, we have all been invited to don our Converse and spike the punch bowl next spring / summer.
Completedworks
In a piece eloquently titled ‘A Stone is a Small Mountain’, Completedworks’ SS25 jewellery collection took centre stage in their runway that brought a timeless essence to a melancholy beauty. A tortured ballerina draped in pearls is the archetype for their collection, taking inspiration from hope for a better future in their mission for sustainability and responsibly sourced materials. This gothic coquette look is effortlessly Tim Burton meets Black Swan in a stunning exploration of form, with pieces that weave, flow, loop, twist, and expand in a bid to “explore the questions of the human condition, history, politics, language, and art”.
Tolu Coker
In her new collection for SS25, LFW has been teleported back to the ‘70s in a sentimental ode to her mother, Olapeju Coker. The name Olapeju means ‘wealth
gathers’ and Tolu Coker has taken this meaning to heart in her expression of the wealth of community and culture through her sustainable, luxury fashion. With the show space being transformed into her late father’s living room adorned with photographs of proud black women posing in puff sleeves and sculptured head wraps, Coker expresses her British-Nigerian heritage in her collection rooted in community, craftsmanship, and culture.
Founded in 2021, this label has always had powerful black women at its’ heart and has continued this legacy in LFW, casting black models in a beautiful runway carrying a notable ‘70s aesthetic through earth tones and vintage designs. The pops of vibrant green throughout the show add a pinch of the contemporary to the collection while paying homage to the Nigerian flag.
Mains London
At the forefront of the grime-scene is rapper, producer, and filmmaker, Skepta’s fashion venture Mains London. In a distinctive style he calls ‘hood luxury’, Skepta is taking on a new vibe for SS25 in an ‘Ivy League’ look that adds a preppy aesthetic to the primarily sportwear designs. Seen on their runway is shiny textures and fabrics this September, utilising leathers and latex to add this note to the looks which perfectly accompanies the ‘old money’ sense being portrayed. Hints of baggy and oversized silhouettes, which are very apparent in current runways and collections, have been spotted but in a subtle way, effortlessly adding to the nonchalant ease of the collection. Showcasing an all- American colour palette of red, white, blue, and beige, Mains London has managed to keep in tone with its’ sporty and streetwise essence through styling boxing shorts and trainers but has managed to move into a sophisticated and studious aesthetic in a natural way that makes sense for the brand.
KNWLS
Brains behind KNWLS, Charlotte Knowles, has showcased her SS25 collection, Haze, in an expert blend of femininity with a rebellious edge. The use of leather, floating fabrics, and barely-there mesh in a kaleidoscope of earth tones on her runway give a fierce and bold take on classically feminine silhouettes, fabrics, and patterns. Known for her acid wash finish on leather, Knowles has managed to encompass the bold and the demure in her looks, utilising soft pastel greens to soften the shiny leather fabric. The sheer, mesh fabric has been used for blocking in some pieces to create geometric designs while tassels, laces, and ribbons have become an overarching motif to her collection, adding a unique and distinctive movement to her pieces.
Richard Quinn
Effortlessly chic Richard Quinn has graced LFW in an SS25 runway that is as timeless and elegant as ever. Bold and emotive garments in striking black and white fabrics littered with 3D motifs to further enhance their iconic old money aesthetic have been showcased, highlighting Quinn’s meticulous attention to detail. Feathers, flowers, and 3D fabrics have redefined high fashion sensibility with a couture-inspired edge adding explorative texture to a black-tie dress code, while exaggerated, oversized silhouettes add a contemporary, modern flair to the collection. The Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design recipient has stayed true to their signature florals, evening silhouettes, and statement outerwear in this collection, combining enviable handcrafted skill with innovative fabrications in a truly iconic statement.
Natasha Zinko
Pioneer in the gender fluidity of fashion is designer Natasha Zinko, whose emphasis on sustainable, recycles materials, and open approach to ‘gendered’ clothing has redefined ‘unisex’. Unisex in fashion typically translates to the absence of gender in a garment, but in Zinko’s LFW collection, she has kept the
essence of typical feminine and masculine clothing in her unisex clothing, creating accessible pieces for all genders to explore without losing this essence that is so intrinsically linked to identity and expression.
In a collage of daring cutouts, floral prints, denim, and leather, the SS25 collection most notably features the innovative use of safety pins both in cut- outs and in the absence of fabric. Giving a new identity to recycled materials, this is perhaps the most ambitious definition of recycled material, but reward definitely comes with this risk as no one can take their eyes off of these pieces perfectly encompassing delicate and robust.
Words By Isobel O’Conner
