Luxury house Dior has unveiled their autumn-winter 2022-2023 campaign. Through the lens of Brigitte Niedermair, Dior is continuing its era of modern femininity and empowerment; through threads and silhouettes, Dior’s latest campaign centred around female conditioning.
‘From the New Look to the New Era’
Dior’s signature silhouettes – Maison Dior will always hold a special place in the French capital. It is here that the ‘New Look’ was born, a set of romantic, hyperfeminine- fin de siècle- silhouettes that evoke the clothes worn by Christian Dior’s mother. The development of structured heavy-wear fabrics led to a particular post-war fashion period for women.
Since becoming Dior’s first female creative director in 2016, Maria Grazia Chiuri has continuously pushed the sartorial envelope for the House, best known for its nip-waist accentuated busts. Chiuri has now unveiled a fresh ready-to-wear collection that reflects on the conditioning of women throughout history.
This creative director is bringing Dior’s New Look into ‘The Next Era- Chiuri made a point of only hiring female photographers for this campaign. The AW22/23 ready-to-wear campaign features portraits of women amidst a dramatic red backdrop.
Chiuri’s collections are situated on the cusp of Dior’s history. The garments and accessories take inspiration from women’s fashion past and present- pieces that blend the classic Dior aesthetics with a modern flair.
This show’s title comes from Mariella Bettineschi, in which the Italian artist showcased large-scale portraits of women in paintings dating from the 16th to the 19th century.
Embracing Bettineshi’s male gaze reversal, the ardent feminist Chiuri has utilized Dior’s antique aesthetic as a reminder of the truth about women’s struggle throughout history, and the modernisation of the classic Dior silhouette featured on this year’s runway signifies the milestones made in women’s suffrage history.
Models América González, Maryel Uchida, Steinberg, and Philyne Mercedes are featured in the campaign, styled by Elin Svahn.
Images taken from DIOR, Photography by Brigitte Niedermair
The cut, stark eyes that face the camera symbolise the questioning of the conditions that have condemned women past and present. The gaze is reversed to suggest a different interpretation of art history. Through the artistic arrangement, materials, and silhouettes, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s concepts come to life through Niedermair’s photography. Chiuri reconstructs the relationship between body and garment in a performative manner.
Images taken from DIOR, Photography by Brigitte Niedermair
Dior’s iconic Bar jacket was reimagined in structure and tech innovation, regulating the body’s temperature and warming or cooling it as needed. An illuminated criss-cross bodysuit also followed, which controlled its wearer’s body temperature.
The iconic Roger Vivier for Dior pump was reimagined in Fall/Winter 2022, using technical fabric instead of leather. Several items, such as belts and corsets, were used, giving everyday wear a futuristic and versatile twist.
Images taken from DIOR, Photography by Brigitte Niedermair
A collection of skirts and dresses exhibited Chirui’s recognizable touch from a new perspective. An elevated approach was achieved by reinventing pleated skirts like the Grisaille from men’s clothing; technical knitwear featured embroidery on waterproof materials, gloves, Moto jackets, and bright stockings reminiscent of biker accessories were paired with gowns.
Images taken from DIOR, Photography by Brigitte Niedermair
As a nod to Chiuri’s rebellious yet respectful nature, she used a print from a backdrop of a portrait of Christian Dior to create a new print, seen on an oversized coat with couture gloves.
Words By Chanelle Jassim
Header Image: DIOR, Photography by Brigitte Niedermair
