Paris Fashion Week is doing what it does best- captivating an audience from around the world as it produces spectacle after spectacle. Paris is not playing or wasting time. The four days of Haute Couture fashion began showing straight off the back of Paris Men’s in a seamless transitional style. But what did we expect? Paris has been the emperor of the fashion world since the concept of fashion was invented. If there’s one week to look to for the high end trends, it’s Paris Haute Couture.
Moments
Expected fashion icons such as Anna Wintour are of course in attendance at the shows, as well as special celebrity guests. So far we have seen Doja Cat embroidered head-to-toe in crystals and Kylie Jenner in a fierce faux fur. Doja was glistening at every angle as she showed her allegiance with Schiaparelli. A moment constructed of 30,000 Swarovski crystals and red body paint, the surrealist beauty of the look was undeniably iconic.
Kylie Jenner also gave us all a moment to discuss in her Haute Couture Schiaparelli. The lion head which was sculpted from foam, silk faux fur and wool, will definitely be going down in fashion history.
Schiaparelli
A fierce show was put on by the legendary French house, Schiaparelli. No surprise, Schiaparelli’s show has given us the biggest moment of the Haute Couture Week… so far. In the early days of the brand’s legacy, controversial and surrealist designs pushed fashion attitudes to develop and modernise. Daniel Roseberry, creative director of the Haute Couture house took this in his stride and got the crowds wild with his fake taxidermy pieces.
Shining a light on the controversial use of fur in the fashion industry, he certainly made a talking piece in the media with his ensemble of wild animals going down the runway. Not only did spectators see the incredibly high fashion lion dress on model Irina Shayk, but also on front row attendee, Kylie Jenner. A moment which has already gone viral on various platforms, the spectacle got everyone talking about Schiaparelli. However, not in the ways they intended. Controversy arose as animal lovers labelled the brand as ‘promoting poaching and animal cruelty’. As Roseberry defended his faux fashion pieces as ‘celebrations of nature’, PETA stepped in to support the fashion looks and their symbolism.
Images Courtesy of Schiaparelli
The collection, of course, consisted of more than the iconic trio- the lion, the leopard and the wolf. Hyper-feminine silhouettes which were adapted from traditional menswear was a strong theme running throughout the collection. The extremely low v-cut tuxedo and glamorous black gowns were signature Schiaparelli style. Roseberry has managed to effortlessly capture the brand’s elegant and luxurious origins even in the 21st Century.
Images Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Iris Van Herpen
Designer, Iris Van Herpen, envisioned a sensationally touching and proactive display, which was executed magnificently. The SS23 Haute Couture collection, Carte Blanche, was divinely inspired and came to life in collaboration with French creative Julie Gautier. The film was a feminist masterpiece, which tried to shed light on the global strength of women, especially the ongoing resilience of Iranian women. Choosing to show the clothing submerged in deep water was a powerful creative choice which symbolized the external struggles women face in their existence. Water also takes away the voice and ability to hear those consumed under the surface, which is another reference to women’s protest and suffering. The performance was beautifully breath-taking on the surface, however, understanding the meaning behind, transformed the film into a stunningly poignant and touching piece of work.
Known for fluidly constructed designs the Haute Couture collection evolved beautifully from the previous, Meta Morphism, collection. The slow movements of the models brought the clothing to life as it swirled and danced in the motions of the water. The fantastical and SCI-FY nature of the clothing was emphasized in the foreign and unnatural landscape of the film. The beautiful and hyper-feminine styles were captivating as they moved through the water like they belonged, like a mythical and majestic sea creature. The gorgeous organic silk fabrics entangled the dancers, which embraced the restraints and confinements imposed on women. The red corset design worn by Julie Gautier featured red synthetic and real human hair as an emblem of freedom.
Images Courtesy of Iris Van Herpen
Chanel
A Parisian favourite managing to keep on top of the game, ahead of the trends and in the forefronts of our minds. As relevant as they were when they started their sensational journey in the 20th century, Chanel returns every year to showcase their Haute Couture in their home city. The atmosphere of a Chanel show is exclusive and chic. This year for their SS23 Haute Couture, expectations slowly built as soft music began to play. In a circus styled layout, large wooden animal statues were wheeled out. The curiosity blossomed as Camels, elephants and mice all appeared in the form of the overbearing sculptures.
Not was all it seemed for spectators. Grand entrances erupted as one by one, runway models emerged from the wooden sculptures, in true Troy essence. However, these gifts gave us attacks of fashion as opposed to the attack of soldiers. Adhering to the subtle circus themes underlying the collection, the first look to step foot on the runway was suggestive of a ringleader. Kitted in a top-hat and white military parade jacket, the look set the scene for what was to come. Styles incorporated the charming playfulness of circus bowties and majorette silhouettes. This being said, the collection was distinctively Chanel. Classic Chanel styles, black-tipped shoes and tweeds, featured within the SS23 set of looks, importantly reinforcing the roots and heritage of the house. Other classic Chanel distinctions were transformed for the collection to embody the sign of the times. A-line bodices were enriched with tulle ruffles, suit jackets were paired with miniature skirts and styled with bowties and top hats. Embroidered pieces and pearls made their way on to the runway as well, which we were glad to see as they are a symbol of the late designer.
Images Courtesy of Chanel
Words By Erin Wilson
Graphic Header Image By Mia Washbrook
