All Images Credited To Saint Laurent
Icy winds; crashing waves; perilous terrains: Saint Laurent’s Icelandic setting screams ‘winter’. Fundamentally, Anthony Vaccarello likens the collection to ‘the idea of a girl in a landscape where she doesn’t belong’. Yet the juxtaposition between the wintry backdrop and isolated models speaks to more. Having taken inspiration from his setting, Vaccarello seems to reference our human disposition in the world, the fragile contingency between our power and the power of nature, that despite our boldness, we will always be unmatched by our natural wonders. By pairing such a vast, natural backdrop with their rock-chick, fierce 2021 collection, YSL truly highlight the daring precision woven into their ‘atelier’ and ‘savoir faire’ roots.
Inspired partially by Peaches’ 90s wardrobe and partially by the 60s Parisian parties, the collection is a fascinating merge between minimalist short cuts, and maximalist indulgent accessorising. In the words of Vaccarello: we see ‘the shapes of the ‘60s with the colours of the ‘80s.’ Orienting around contemporary tailoring, we see barely-there silhouettes, short, hemmed skirts layered beneath equal length blazars. There is a thrilling lack of predictability in each look, as we are given low, sweeping necklines coupled with blunt cuffed sleeves and sharp, metal-tipped pointed shoes. The combined effect is a daring, yet effortless, recklessness. A raw mix of texture and colour, a contrast between extravagance and simplicity.
And texture and colour certainly have been ignored, they hold the starring roles in the campaign. Electric blue; rich gold; metallic silver; hot pink; lime green; turquoise; an endless list of colours. An abundance of faux fur; chandelier earrings dripping in diamantes; tweed boucle; the return of the four-leaf clover. Saint Laurent’s winter collection has channelled a rich vibrancy.
Returning to his motive, the idea of a girl where she doesn’t belong, Vaccarello welcomes an uncharacteristic winter wardrobe. Despite the bitter coldness, the relentless biting Icelandic winter, fashion and expression must go on. In true YSL fashion, luxury and abstract have been blended, simplicity and boldness sit together, and – for us – we must fight against the odds of belonging, both metaphorically and aesthetically
Words By Hannah Emery
