Photo Credit: Helmut Lang
Lockdown has inspired many of us to pause our usual pace and reflect on the present moment, the things we miss, and what we want to see from a post-pandemic society. With restrictions now starting to lift, the reality we’ve spent over a year longing for now seems within touching distance.
Helmut Lang’s AW21 Collection “reflects a cautiously optimistic attitude” and examines the potential realities of a post-pandemic society. Interweaving the brand’s signature minimalistic silhouette styling with weatherproof garments and fabrics, the collection aims to prepare for the uncertainties of the near future by creating pieces that are both multi-functional and multi-seasonal.
Starting with a visual reference board of ski attire, hi-tech materials, and sci-fi aesthetics, the brand has produced a collection that revolves around silver surfaces – matte and reflective – and durable textiles. Functional materials such as double neoprene and astro foil are packed together to create padded or quilted garments that tap into the brand’s new futuristic vision.
Both the Men’s and Women’s collections uphold this aesthetic, showcasing the likes of matte puffer vests with contrasting silver accents, nylon tracksuits, patchwork fleecing, zippered neoprene leggings, and sporty silhouettes decked out in military waffle. Functionality also takes pride of place; detachable sleeves, buckles, and belts are highlighted to show the multiple ways to wear a specific item.
While looking to the future is arguably the number one priority for many fashion labels, Helmut Lang continue to uphold the staples that gave it its seat at the forefront of the fashion industry. So, don’t be surprised to see the 90’s-inspired, minimalist finishes that detail the collection’s visual landscape.
“True to the brand’s heritage, timeless silhouettes are reconstructed using innovative materials and mixing signature Helmut Lang details such as straps, layered fabrics, and patchwork.”
– Helmut Lang
The collection is paired with Helmut Lang Standards, a line of garments that reimagine wardrobe staples using fabrics synonymous with the brand: denim, leather, and jersey. A contemporary twist is achieved by the use of deconstructed basics such as cutouts, detachable sleeves, padding, and strapping details.
Statement looks from the Women’s collection include silver miniskirts, long sleeves, and draped dresses. A standout look is a smooth rider suit reimagined as casualwear, made up of a cropped, double-breasted blazer and micro-mini wrap skirt. The outfit is a new take on the co-ord suit that combines Helmut Lang’s sharp tailoring with an edgy youthfulness. Utilitarian fixtures such as the skirt’s elastic tie and buckle closure also highlight the brand’s preference for functional detailing.
Men’s highlights consist of casual tracksuit pieces in grey, orange, khaki, and russet – a nod to the seasonal colour palette – as well as denim co-ords and puffed gilets. A shiny lambskin over-shirt jacket stands out for its resemblance to a biker jacket. Combined with zipper detailing, a white shirt, and Helmut Lang’s classic denim jeans, the outfit channels all of the timeless characteristics men’s fashion while staying true to the brand’s minimalist design aesthetic.
Bridging the gap between the ideals of the past and the excitement of the future, the Helmut Lang FW21 Collection truly cements the brand’s status as a pioneer of contemporary fashion. Using its winning combination of streetwear and high fashion, classic denim and Astro foil, pretty silhouettes, and functional detailing, Helmut Lang proves that their creative direction continues to offer a fresh perspective on the fashion landscape.
Words By Charlie Colville
