In a triumphant runway return, Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fall 2021 Couture collection referenced the designer’s most iconic looks, whilst bringing in a fresh interpretation of his style for 2021 — all via the vision of guest designer Chitose Abe.
Though Gaultier retired last year, he said his couture house would continue on, with future collections being created by a changing carousel of designers. Abe, the Creative Director of Sacai, was the first to have the honour — and yesterday presented a beautiful blend of for where her own talent for inventive garment structures meets the iconic ground-breaking aesthetic of the House of Gaultier.
“I gave her complete freedom. I didn’t want to see any of the finished looks,” Gaultier told Women’s Wear Daily.
Abe’s work brought many unforgettable touch-points on the Gaultier timeline into 2021— from line stitched bustiers and plays on pinstripes (both made ultra-famous by being worn by Madonna during her “Blonde Ambition” era), to the Icelandic-style garments originally modelled by Björk on Gaultier’s 90s runway.
“I didn’t even have to look in the archives, I had in my mind the outfits I wanted to reference: something that Björk wore, the plaid — I had all these ideas.”
Abe to Women’s Wear Daily
Even Gaultier himself acted as inspiration. The designer, who is often still referred to as Enfant Terrible is known for his own personal look — often wearing sailor sweaters and tartan kilts mixed in with knee-high boots. Abe used Gaultier’s personal style trademarks to inspire tartan knee-high boots, sailor-sweater-inspired tunics and dresses, and even bustiers and evening wear that referenced the workman’s jumpsuit Gaultier is also known to wear.
The look of Jean Paul Gaultier’s designs of course could never be described as conventional. This is why there is such a genius in taking what could be considered to be traditional or even utilitarian fabrics and mixing them up with more dynamic presentations, textures and silhouettes that can create such a visual impact.
Just as Gaultier did before her, Abe ensured that luxury was ever-present, even when working with deconstructed “bomber” jackets, denim and trench coats. The designer expertly mixed elements of utilitarianism and punk with the extravagance of couture by mixing deconstruction with perfected craftsmanship. The stripes of sailor sweaters and the checks of tartans are not made from basic fabrics — rather, they are created with artistically meticulous trompe l’oeil fashioned out of luxurious silk organza.
A number of the garments were also complemented with sheer “tattoo” second-skin garments designed in collaboration with the LA-based tattoo artist Dr Woo — with a selection of these pieces currently available on Gaultier’s website as a part of his recently relaunched Ready-to-Wear collection.
Abe used “traditional” fabrics on unexpected garments — with floor-length gowns made of cable knits and trench coats made into voluminous skirts.
Of course, incredible attention to detail was presented throughout the looks — metallic trims were made of perfectly placed safety denim was deconstructed into dramatic glamour, and tall platformed boots from Pierre Hardy beautifully finished off the looks.
As the show closed, its guest of honour, Gaultier himself, stepped onto the runway wearing an “Enfants terribles” shirt, joining Abe, who matched him in her own shirt saying “Enfants Terribles“.
The Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fall 2021 Couture collection can be viewed in its entirety here.
Words By Victoria Arrington, Graphic By Emily Chapillon
