While Monday is usually known as the most dreaded day of the week, we cannot really say the same thing when talking about London Fashion Week. Highly expected designers (such as Erdem, Victoria Beckham and Christopher Kane) have today shared their vision for the Spring/Summer 2021 collections and – as if this was not exciting enough- we have also witnessed a sprung of joy and creativity amongst our British designers. Today, optimism reigned in the form of patterns, colours, and diversity.
Osman Yousefzada SS21
Osman Yousefzada SS21 via Osman Studio Youtube
Designer Osman Yousefzada has launched at London Fashion Week his new label with the digital production ‘Here To Stay’. Completely taken in by its earthed political statement, the film becomes a celebration of marginalised communities and their heritage, proving once again that fashion is an artistic expression of individuality and current events.
“Fashion should be about the creation of human value from Weaver to Wearer,” said the designer.
Osman Yousefzada SS21
The collection mainly features jersey and linen-blend dresses, as well as oversized tailored pieces reminiscent of the ‘90s. Osman Yousefzada is reintroducing tie-die for Spring/Summer 2021, with hand-made prints created by artisans from Mumbai, India. The designer has also recreated pieces such as the Nehru Jacket into modern garments by playing with neutrals and utility-style influences.
Mark Fast SS21
Mark Fast SS21
In times where optimism seemed to be long forgotten, there came Mark Fast. Featuring the brand’s neon-colour obsession and playful MF monograms, the Spring/Summer 2021 collection is inspired by the nightlife and the ‘80s and ‘90s. The label’s take on print and texture overlaying is youthful and rebellious.
‘Future Fusion’ has shown that everything is possible: from neon green feathers on a colour block striped skirt, to matching pastel shades of lavender and pink with green. Cut-outs and patchwork have also been featured in the collection, making the garments modern and full of sex-appeal.
Mark Fast London Fashion Week SS21 video via Fil Mazzarinon
Erdem SS21
Erdem SS21
Classic and inspiring royalty, as always, Erdem has chosen to showcase their Spring/Summer 2021 collection in the ancient Epping Forest, in Essex. Once proclaimed a royal forest, it had – supposedly – been used by Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth I as a hunting ground. The scenery perfectly complemented the showcased garments and theme of the collection.
The collection was inspired by Susan Sontag’s character, Emma Hamilton, who rises from being a blacksmith’s daughter, to becoming a political player within Italian aristocracy. Erdem has swept us away with detailed and classic, yet unconventional prints and embroidery. Paired with fine jewellery and maxi dresses in classic cuts, Erdem introduced platform shoes in funky patterns as a Spring/Summer 2021 must-have.
Erdem SS21
Bora Aksu SS21
Bora Aksu SS21
For Spring/Summer 2021, Bora Aksu proposed a link between current times and the post-war decadence of the 1920s. Inspired by the new role women started to play during the 1920s as nurses and the rise in women’s rights within society, the brand sent down the runway looks blossoming of femininity.
As expected in COVID times, the models wore tulle face coverings as a facemask. The collection featured oversized clothing and flowy dresses and skirts, leaving no room for sharp silhouettes. Shades of white, baby blue and creams allowed detailed embroidery and prints to shine through, showcasing Bora Aksu’s design signature.
Bora Aksu Spring Summer 2021
Victoria Beckham SS21
Victoria Beckham SS21
In the digital film of Victoria Beckham’s collection, the designer explained how the limitations of the pandemic have given us a new type of freedom. Reflecting on what her label is as a brand and its purpose, her inspiration for the Spring/Summer 2021 collection simply lies in making clothes for women.
Featuring relaxed fits and staples of each woman’s wardrobe (such as the coat, the jeans), the designer focused on creating a collection diverse in colours, textures, and silhouettes. Rooted in our day-to-day lives, the garments are modern with their strong tailoring and colour palette. Shades of beige, white and black are indispensable but, far from being too somber for Spring/Summer, they are accompanied by surprising pieces, such as a pair of green wide-leg tailored trousers.
Christopher Kane SS21
Christopher Kane SS21
Christopher Kane has put glitter at the forefront of his collection, in a desperate search for optimism and joy during the pandemic. From experimenting with art on the canvas, the designer has made back a transition to fashion by heavily using print. Expect authenticity from the Spring/Summer 2021 Christopher Kane collection, where clothes have become – truly- pieces of art.
Words by Emilia Roman
Graphics by Lucy Gifford
