For the fall 2023 show Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of women’s collections at Dior, wanted to explore how feelings and emotions can connect us with a country and its culture.
Both Chiuri and Dior have a long history with India and this was embraced for the collaboration through work relations and friendship. She has a close friendship with Karishma Swali, the director of Chanakya atelier and Chanakya school of craft. Chiuri first began working with the atelier two decades ago and the collection relies on their mastery of embroidery and traditional Indian techniques, while putting emphasis on empowering female Indian artisans and their inventiveness.
Dior’s relationship with India goes even further back, with former artistic director Marc Bohan
travelling to India in 1962 to showcase looks in Mumbai and Delhi.
Chiuri paid homage to the initial meeting by incorporating a quote found in the archives, ‘L’Union fait la force’, meaning ‘Union is strength’ into the collection, visualising how working together creates fresh connective energies, like combining classic Dior silhouettes with traditional Indian designs.
The show took place at the Gateway of India monument in Mumbai, which was built in the early 20th century to commemorate the British monarchy’s first-ever visit to India. The arch is a metaphor for the fusion of cultures and traditions. Erected in front of the arch was a 14-meter-tall Toran, an embroidered fabric traditionally hung at the entrance to welcome guests into your home. It featured elephants, tigers, and peacocks and took 35,000 hours of handwork and encompassed 25 craft techniques. The Chanakya ateliers and School of Craft worked together over several months to create it using phulkari, french knotting, kantha, and mirror work techniques. After emerging from the Toran, models paraded between dozens of gold candles and ornate arrangements of marigolds.
The 99 models, with many being Indian, wore bright-coloured silks, traditional Indian cuts, boleros, gold and silver, and sari-inspired skirts. ‘Zardozi’, metal embroidery, and ‘Ek Taar’, elaborate embroidery using a single thread, adorned the outfits.
Celebrities also came out in force, from legendary cricketers to famous Hindi actresses.
Simone Ashley
Celebrating her 28th birthday, Simone Ashley styled this white Dior gown with a pearl necklace, a common theme in the collection.
Anushka Sharma
Attending with her husband, actress Anushka Sharma paired a yellow silk Dior gown with a yellow mini Miss Dior bag.
Dior Lady Dior Small Bag
Raja Kumari
Rapper Raja Kumari wore a metallic green sari from Delhi-based designer Rimzim Dadu.
Words by Lucy Walshe
Header Image by Indranil Mukherjee
