Photo Credit: Leila Jacue
Fashion is a key means of self-expression for many people around the world. With lockdown now easing in the UK, many of us are gearing up to jump out of our loungewear and into something a bit more runway ready.
An ever-growing part of fashion is the need for gender-inclusive clothing that promotes fluidity. It’s not news that people are rejecting the binary framework of gender identity and visual representation, but it’s safe to say that we’ve never seen so many brands opting for genderless collections.
We’ve put together a list of brands who promote the message that anyone can wear whatever they like, regardless of traditional gendered structures. From fun colours and silhouettes to hand-drawn illustrations and natural practices, the genderless trend is proving its place in a more diverse future – one which places us at the heart of it.
Eckhaus Latta
American fashion label, Eckhaus Latta, was founded in 2011 by Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta. Eckhaus Latta have carved out a place for themselves in the industry as a brand that consistently questions established structures and norms, creating gender-neutral designs and casting non-models for its shows. Using unconventional fabrics such as plastic, fishing line, and quilting as well as deadstock materials, Eckhaus Latta is one to watch for fun, vibrant clothing items.
One DNA
Based on the desire to create an urban brand that prioritises inclusivity, One DNA is the brainchild of Simon Black and Travis Weaver. Breaking down the boundaries between womenswear and menswear without sacrificing style, One DNA comprises gender-neutral garments that avoid the typical boxy and oversized aesthetic in favour of tailored and fitted clothing. A black, queer-owned, and eco-conscious brand, One DNA is quickly becoming the leader of the new unisex trend.
Nicopanda
New York based street style brand, Nicopanda, is best known for its playful approach to genderless clothing. Led by Nicola Formichetti, the brand seeks to capture the imagination of street enthusiasts around the world through edgy designs and collections – as well as some amazing collaborations. Some well-known collaborators from recent years include Ariana Grande, Refinery29, Champion, Amazon Prime, Pepsi, MAC, and Hello Kitty. With the motto “DESIGNED FOR ALL AND AVAILABLE TO ALL”, Nicopanda is an exciting take on gender-neutral fashion.
DB Berdan
DB Berdan is an urban lux brand launched by Turkish designers Deniz Berdan and Beg Berdan, with a base in London. DB Berdan’s collections focus on creating genderless apparel that defies heteronormativity, appealing to those who prefer not to be defined by sex, race, or gender. While the brand has a current focus on athleticwear, they are also infamous for their street wear – as seen in the SS20 collaboration with Smiley. DB Berdan also has backing from several major celebrities, including Halsey, Agnez Mo, Little Mix, Jessica Anne Woodley, RAY BLK, Rudimental, Kojey Radical, Stefflon Don, Princess Nokia, and GIRLI.
Daniel w. Fletcher
British-born designer Daniel Fletcher skyrocketed in popularity last year after participating in Netflix’s Next in Fashion, where he placed second. Fletcher has since gone on to launch multiple collections through London Fashion Week, take on his first season as Artistic Director of Fiorucci, and debut his first ‘womenswear’ collection. While given the title of a contemporary menswear brand, Fletcher has always remained adamant that his clothing is for all who want to wear it. In a conversation with Vogue, Fletcher commented with reference to his AW21 Collection: “My beliefs are still the same — a shirt is a shirt and a pair of trousers is a pair of trousers — to be worn by anyone.”
OlderBrother
Characterised as a ‘one-of-a-kind ethical fashion shop’, Olderbrother is a contemporary gender-neutral fashion brand that champions slow fashion and ethical practice. The brand is known for paying close attention to the materials they use, opting for natural dyes that reflect their preference for natural colour palettes. Olderbrother was founded by Bobby Boonaparte and Max Kingery, who are passionate about educating their clientele on the harmful impacts of the wider fashion industry. With the aim of creating garments that anyone can wear, Olderbrother is truly unique in their preference of brand ideals over current trends.
Official Rebrand
Founded by nonbinary artist MI Leggett, Official Rebrand is an anti-waste clothing brand that champions fluidity of expression. Leggett hand paints and alters discarded clothing, creating upcycled pieces that are one of a kind and customisable. As noted by the CFDA, Official Rebrand’s “transformative process celebrates the fluidity of identity, dissociating garments from gendered categories, reintroducing them without arbitrary social constraints.” With their most recent collection, ‘collapse/convulse’, Leggett reemphasised the importance of fashion as a means of self-expression, in particular for marginalised groups in contemporary society.
Words By Charlie Colville
