An atmosphere of lightness and flair consumed Haute Couture Day two, as designers took us back to the roaring 20s. Neutral tones of ivory, taupe and peach took centre stage at the shows of Stephane Rolland and Alexis Mabille. While slow-flowing gowns and feather embellished garments dominated Chanel and Alexandre Vauthier’s shows. Each designer brought their own playful and distinctive creativeness to cultivate staggering looks reminiscent of an era 100 years behind us.
Stephane Rolland
Classical music sang in the air, raising the audience’s already willing anticipation created by the dimly-lit runway of Stephane Rolland’s 2022 Haute Couture show. The music was slowly exchanged for timeless ballads by Barbara Streisand as the lighting moulded into a clinical white light. Models like Nieves Alvarez drifted into the scene, covered from head to toe in silk garments. Dramatic silhouette dresses in sage and silver were enveloped by flowing capes, representing the heroic and divine feminine energy of Rolland’s collection. The collection’s luxury and dramatic spirit were bolstered by the oversized gemstones nestled on the chest and forearms of models.
Allowing women to feel flair and ease while wearing timeless gowns was the clear inspiration behind Rolland’s Haute Couture SS22 collection- marvellously representing the brand DNA of “combining luxury with modern lifestyle.”
Chanel
Chanel’s Haute SS22 Couture Collection, featuring 20s style relaxed fits, sequin and feather embellished dresses brought Chanel back to its roots as a pioneer of the 1920s fashion revolution.
Chanel’s status as a leader of runway trends remains a century on, as the Parisian fashion house made the daring decision to open their show with a horse for the first time in fashion history. Grace Kelly’s granddaughter, Charlotte Casiraghi, was a vision of elegance as she strode the runway on horseback, sporting an all-black equestrian ensemble to impress eager audience members like Anders Christian Madsen and Margot Robbie.
While the fashion house mixed things up this season, Chanel’s Creative Director Virginie Viard ensured the classic Chanel vision was not lost as the world-renown Chanel tweed skirt-suit featured multiple times in the collection. The suit was displayed in fresh hues of pastel peach and lime, perfect for the summer season.
Alexis Mabille
Peaceful tones of beige and taupe gave model’s on French designer Alexis Mabille’s runway an air of serenity. Gliding along the off-white runway to the sounds of soft french songs was lengthy, flowing dresses and maxi- skirts which added to the relaxing atmosphere of Mabillie’s Couture Collection, named ‘desire’ by the fashion house.
While the collection may appear minimal upon first look, the fine details of lace and silk bows added a touch of intricacy to the collection. An all-black suit with a lace headpiece provided a sombre finish in contrast to the tranquillity of the show before a gleaming Mabille entered the runway to receive his deserved praise from the audience.
Ronald van der Kemp
A work of art is the only way to describe Ronald van der Kemp’s SS22 Haute Couture Collection. The 8-year-old label opened and closed its virtual show with 71-year-old model Pat Cleveland; one of the first African American models to ever break into the fashion industry. Her flair and perky energy was a perfect match for the flamboyant artistic collection created by Dutch designer Van Der Kemp.
Picasso style skirts gave the illusion of stained glass, and flamingo-pink dresses invited a magical fairytale aura to the masterpiece collection. Each piece showcased was impressively handcrafted from recycled material or eco- felt, sticking to the label’s sustainable ethos as they pioneer the change to earth-friendly high fashion.
Alexandre Vauthier
The roaring 20s met the roar of the jungle in Alexandre Vauthier’s SS22 Couture Collection. Sequined gowns with fur trims, leopard print on leopard print, and two-toned fur coats graced the runway adding a modern twist to the current 1920s evening wear trend. The garments were worn by the industry’s top models from Africa Garcia to Effie Steinburg.
The show was set in an open, ballroom-style Parisian location; the perfect surroundings for a collection as luxurious and exuberant as Vauthiers.
Words By Olivia Booth
Photo Credit : Alessandro Lucioni
