‘Le Raphia’
Simon Porte Jacquemus’s late debut of his SS 23 collection created panic before it even began. Teasing Instagram followers with a statement that read ‘Le Raphia’ would be his last collection, he quickly followed up with a cheeky “of the year”. Before the show even began, we knew it was going to be as fun as Jacquemus himself.
Yesterday, Le Bourget airport, Paris, was filled with models and show attendees as Jacquemus showed off his wonderful new collection. They say all good things come in threes, and this was definitely the case with ‘Le Raphia’. Shown in sets of three, we witnessed outfits in related trilogies walk down the runway. The setting worked wonders for the natural aesthetic of the collection as models walked under falling straw, which fell as elegantly as light snow.
Taking a lot of his inspiration from the beauty of the natural world this collection gave us yet another glimpse into the mind of the fashion designer. Stating his greatest muse for fashion design was his mother, the collection taps into new influences as well as staying true to his number one inspiration. Previously designing for the “typical French girl”, he envisioned this collection worn around the Italian coast. For girls’ passionate about fashion and like the more-is-more aesthetic.
The Collection
The hype of his Summer in Winter show has everyone eager to start spending, and luckily the collection has started to drop today with a promise of a short wait for later items. Featuring denims, feathers and of course raphia, the collection was full of fresh summery designs. Suits, were of course featured, along with dresses containing cut-outs and strappy shoulders. Let’s take a look at some of the new features of the spectacular designs of yesterday and our key takeaways.
Raphia
Image Credit: Jacquemus
Starting with the huge use of raphia, which inspired the name of the collection. We see oversized cartwheel hats and fitted bucket hats, perfect for the collection’s location intention of coastal Italy. Paired with huge sunflower earrings, they could not look better.
Ruffles
Image Credit: Jacquemus
Strong, constructed ruffles were a common sight at the show. Ruffles predicted as a SS 23 trend can be understood after watching the models walk down the sunlit runway of Jacquemus’s show.
Colours and Patterns
Image Credit: Jacquemus
Super on brand from Jacquemus we see his colours evolve through the seasons. Evolving from his last collection, ‘Le Papier’, we see more of the natural whites and creams pop up in his latest designs. His previous use of pink also makes an appearance within the collection as well as a large focus on beachy, pastel colours. The psychedelic, wavy prints inspired by the 1970’s are shown on sarongs and beach wear. WGSN x Coloro colour of the year 2023, Digital Lavendar, has also made a popping appearance within the clothing collection.
Feathers
Image Credit: Jacquemus
Wispy feathers were seen across multiple outfit trilogies. Used as trim, worn over well-tailored suits and going full out with coats and tops, we suspect this will be extremely popular in SS 23.
Bags
Image Credit: Jacquemus
Famous for his micro-mini bags, we did spot one of his signature bags being carried down the runway. However, most bags within the collection were much softer styles than his usual designs. Feathered bags and raphia bags were commonly carried down the walkway, which complimented the soft styles of the clothing worn. Going against his usual sizing, we see bigger is better for the upcoming season as large bags take precedence.
Jacquemus Baggy Jeans
Words By: Erin Wilson
Header Image: Jacquemus
