Simon Porte Jacquemus is famous for the dramatic settings of his incredible shows — so his latest runway presentation “La Montagne,” of course did not disappoint. The show, presented yesterday at the Cité du Cinéma near Paris, was displayed on a set made to look like a green hill made of cheerfully cartoonish colours — the perfect showcase for these beautifully designed pieces.
Photo Credits: Vogue Runway
“I wanted to focus on the clothes, the silhouettes, the colours, the fabrics, the details and the energy of the models. I wanted the set to be minimal and sharp, recreating an abstract artistic mountain that portrays the inspiration of the collection,” Jacquemus said on a card placed on the audience’s seats, according to Women’s Wear Daily.
“I wanted to focus on the clothes, the silhouettes, the colours, the fabrics, the details and the energy of the models.”
Pieces were modelled by a variety of models including Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid, who are both noted fans of the designer’s work.
Models wore both ultra-wide and ultra-skinny trousers that hung low on the waist, that were finished with hemlines flowing low to the ground. The slouching cuts draped over the model’s legs, at times covering shoes in a new take on the Y2K looks reminiscent of the era’s dramatic trousers. In contrast, the tops were worn high, with midriff-baring styles showcasing waistlines and bustlines alike. It’s clear these risqué styles of the era are not going anywhere.
The colours were also very Y2K, with bright fluorescent neons mixed in with the era’s warm browns. Many of the designer’s looks also played with head-to-toe monochrome – these strong colourings highlighted on the Jacquemus Instagram as well – with the procession of the show’s looks gliding between blocks of colour stories.
Photo Credits: Vogue Runway
To accessorise the looks, large hoop earrings made of intense gold metal added to the 90s look. Bright gold metals also acted as garment hardware in the form of zippers and clasps.
And in an incredible move for footwear, the collection also featured asymmetrical shoes, topped off with everything from orange fur to ultra-strappy ankle ties.
Across all pieces, the runway show mixed the unexpected — with models wearing furry coats with crop tops. This mix was perfectly tuned in to the brand’s decision to adopt a model of season-less dressing and to challenge what may have been typical perspectives of what to present on the horizon of autumn/winter months.
For those of us who crave this collection in our closets ASAP, Jacquemus once again doesn’t disappoint. Pieces from the catwalk were made available online right after the show, with the looks to no doubt be popping up across Instagram once the parcels arrive in the post of the platform’s most popular influencers.
Words by Victoria Arrington, Graphics by Millie Pollok
