Kanye long-anticipated project, DONDA, has finally arrived after numerous release dates, cover art modifications, and three different album presentations. The album is filled with collaborations, including JAY-Z, Playboi Carti, The Weeknd, Travis Scott, and Syleena Johnson. However, one of the most surprising collaborations of the DONDA project is Demna Gvasalia, the current creative director of Balenciaga and co-founder of Vetements.
The early collaborations between Kanye and Demna surprisingly trace back to 2015, with Demna aiding the design process of the first YEEZY collection. From their early partnerships, both designers have a shared influenced from streetwear, irony, and anonymity. Most significantly, Kanye and Demna share an obsession with the infamous Martin Margiela. Margiela popularised deconstructed garments, reworked vintage pieces, oversized silhouettes and overall upset the hegemony of Parisian high fashion during the 1990s.
The pairings connection to Margiela is exemplified in Kanye’s DONDA merch (available here https://shop.kanyewest.com/) described as ‘engineered by Balenciaga’. A plain black face mask references the Margiela masks and Balenciaga face coverings seen on Kanye recently, and the anonymity Margiela sought to create. Again, the simple screen-printed, long-sleeve shirts and black hat reading ‘DONDA’ would not be viewed the same way if it was not for the waves of 1990s minimalist fashion. The merch designs are simplistic and have faced criticism online for being overpriced. Possibly the number one thing shared between Kanye West and Demna’s Balenciaga is controversy – remember the £1600 Balenciaga Ikea tote bag?
However, Kanye and Demna have also proved they are both capable of creating impeccable art. Kanye’s albums hold critical acclaim, particularly My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy, 808s & Heartbreak, and Late Registration, not to mention his unwavering support from a cult following. Demna has also proved himself, most recently in Balenciaga’s exquisite return to couture for Fall 2021.
The DONDA album releases have become stages for Kanye music and inspirations to blend with Demna’s creative vision and designs for Balenciaga. Rarely seen steering away from his own brand YEEZY, Kanye for DONDA has been wearing head-to-toe Balenciaga. Wearing a wild, spiky, and hedgehog-like jacket from Fall/Winter 2020, Kanye played his album for the second time publicly. Also, the last listening party before the album’s release showcased Kim Kardashian, appearing angel-like, in the Balenciaga couture wedding gown.
The primary source of inspiration for DONDA is Kanye’s self-reflection on his mother’s death, with the album opening by repeatedly chanting her name. The album develops out of Kanye’s personal life experiences, specifically those of extremity, as his on-stage events exhibited – funerals, levitation, church services, fire, and finally Kimye’s reenactment of their wedding vows were all included in the performances. Through the abilities of Demna’s creative direction, these moments between a few people onstage can be transformed into dramatic performances and beautiful moments. Whilst Kanye and Demna’s creative collaboration accumulated in DONDA, we think it’s safe to say this is not the end of their partnership.
Words by Caitlin Sahin
