Milan Fashion Week began this week and saw emerging and worldwide designers cultivating
garments that celebrate the power of feminity.
Fendi chose to contrast hard tweed and soft chiffon to celebrate women’s contrasting
personas, while Marco Rambaldi’s show was a celebration of all women regardless of size
or background. Keep Scrolling for everything you need to know!
Milan Fashion Week highlights from days 1,2,3 and 4
Fendi
credits: Antonio Calanni
Leading the way for the charge of models dressed head to toe in pastel Fendi attire was
Bella Hadid who was almost unrecognisable in glasses and a sheer peach dress under a
cropped fur coat- proving Vogues 1983 statement that ‘when you think Fendi have taken fur
as far as it can go think again’ still holds true.
Mint green and mink were the dominant hues of the collection as hard and soft materials
complemented one and other, sheer dresses were paired with the ‘classic’ Fendi attire like
beige blazers and sturdy belts in tweed materials (demonstrating how designer Kim Jones
mined Fendi’s archives for inspiration). When speaking about the collection to Vogue, Jones
stated the hard and soft contrast played to the contrasting attributes that make a woman
powerful.
Credits: IMAXTREE
Marco Rambaldi
Keeping fashion accessible for everyone was the message behind Italian designer
Rambaldi’s FW22 collection. Model’s looked stunning in Ramaldi’s pastel-hued
contemporary designs regardless of gender identity, age, background, or body size.
Vivacious and feminine; Rambaldi’s use of sheer material, hot pink silk, and love hearts
galore drew inspiration from the Y2K pop-punk revivals popular on social media platforms
like Tiktok. Model’s hair and make-up also reflected the styles of noughties icons like Britney
Spears as their faces were ablaze with blocky turquoise shadow and sleek straight hair.
Credits:Giovanni Giannoni
Capasa Milano
Making his return to the fashion industry after 6 years retired, designer Ennio Capasa’s
timeless designs have made a showstopping return to the runway at Milan Fashion Week.
The ‘Before It Starts’ collection of clothing is the epitome of modern workwear; as Capasa
sent suits with an urban twist down the stone runway.
Using material like napped leather and velvet in eccentric bright colours, the designer
demonstrated that looking smart doesn’t mean dedicating to dull hues of grey and black.
Adding to the eccentric business wear, Capasa paired almost every outfit with the currently
trending cowboy style boot in extraterrestrial silver hues. The collection’s name hints this
outstanding show may only be the beginning of the Italian designer’s off-beat revival wear.
Credits: Capasa Milano
View the collection here.
Diesel
Credits: Disel
Denim is often the word that springs to mind when thinking of the Italian label Diesel.
Creative Director Glenn Martens used the first half of his first runway show to live up to
Diesel’s legacy as a denim connoisseur with its FW22 collection cleverly cultivating modern
trends like the micro-mini skirt and trenchcoats in the rugged material. Whether skin-tight or
loose-fitting, dark blue or light grey, the material was used in every way imaginable to
cultivate a collection celebrating the material that marked a symbol of rebellion and youth
throughout the 20th century.
The show took an unexpected extraterrestrial turn as it neared its end, as models ditched
denim for futuristic metallic fibres in wacky hues of orange and blue. Diesel intended the
outlandish ideas behind the garments to celebrate that ‘ideas lead to the future’
Credits: Disel
Alberta Ferretti
Adding to the feminist energy behind this week’s shows, Alberta Ferreti celebrates women’s
ability to dress delicate while ‘acting tough’; portrayed by the storm of models including Mila
Vaneeten and Alyda Grace in soft and feminine metallic ballgowns juxtaposed by their fierce
and confident expressions.
Ferretti used eco fur to craft stunning coats and fur-trimmed boots, while high collars and
silk slip dresses added a sophisticated charm to the collection. Ferretti crafted a series of
garments fit for a modern goddess.
Credits: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Emporio Armani
‘Taking glamour back to its roots’ was the aim behind Emporio Armani’s FW22 collection.
The line played to early 20th-century glamour, adopting bright colours and psychedelic prints
in womenswear to juxtapose the ‘mobster’ grey menswear which featured 1920s- style flat
caps and heavy overcoats reminiscent of BBC’s Peaky Blinders costumes.
Optical illusions were also a source of inspiration behind the Italian brand’s collection as the
trippy textiles and grey hues blurred into the show’s checkerboard print background. The
most unexpected element of the extensive collection came at the end as models broke the
chain of grey attire with pink satin ruffled dresses and sequined tees- playing to
contemporary connotations of ‘glamour’.
Blumarine
Their reputation as specialists in ultra- pink barbie attire and mini skirts makes Blumarine
one of the most ‘traditionally’ feminine brands in high fashion, but Blumarine’s FW22
collection looked to a different kind of feminine, one that is powerful and dangerous, yet,
seductive and soft.
With traditional femme fatale red and black shades dominating the ‘burst and seduce’
collection- Blumarine has evolved this season to bring us their most sultry collection yet.
Sheer cherry stockings, fur coats covering nothing but skin, and skirts that could pass as
belts confirmed that lingerie as outerwear is set to be major this winter. However, while the
fresh take on womenswear was key to this show, Nicola Brognano held on to Blumarine’s
staple pieces: tiny pink purses and sequined materials (which it wouldn’t be a Blumarine
collection without).
Del Core
The cocooned stage before a caterpillar burst into a fluorescent butterfly is the process that
inspired the extravagant Del Core show.
The Italian designer’s show began with achromatic minimal pantsuits- representing the
cocooned stage before a butterfly emerges- dancing down the minimal sky blue runway. The
outfits transformed gradually to incorporate more colour, with sleeves that spread like wings
and abstract cutouts- as skirts were detached below the knees.
The show’s finale was an explosion of glamour and finesse as fairy pink dresses and
extravagant headpieces graced the runway until the show went full circle and finished with a
minimal black dress- reflecting the styles from the show’s beginning.
Moschino
Inspired by Kubrick’s 2001: Space Odyssey, Moschino’s FW22 collection brought fantasy to
the forefront. Abstract garments reinvented day-to-day objects into luxury garments.
Lampshades were reimagined as hats and sofas became skirts.
The collection began with a modest (compared to the wacky later garments) ensemble of
sci-fi skirt suits, uniquely embellished with golden household items like cutlery and
doorknobs. As the show progressed, the garments became progressively zanier;
champagne buckets were carried as handbags and renaissance-style portraits posed as
dresses. Finishing the show was Moschino’s creative director, Jeremy Scott, emerging from
the runway wings in a bright red spacesuit; the collection was a product of our wildest
dreams.
Roberto Cavalli
Animal print had a renaissance at Italian fashion designer Roberto Cavalli’s Day 3 show.
From peacock print to zebra print, designer Fausto Puglisi covered every corner of the
jungle. Representing women’s ability to ‘break the cage of norms’ and express fashion
freedom, Puglisi inventively incorporated the roaring prints into skintight jumpsuits,
structured blazers, and sheer skirts- creating a sexy and flattering collection of eveningwear
that makes a fiercely feminine statement.
Prada
Prada’s ‘Ideology of Prada’ show celebrated life and living. Miuccia Prada crafted
traditionally masculine, boxy blazers and round neck sweaters on the female frame to blur
the lines of gendered clothing.
As the music shifted from a gentle symphony to heavy punk, models emerged down the
purple illuminated runway in barbie pink boxy leather jackets, sheer shirts featuring the
brand’s trademark triangle logo, and delicate fur trims- a feminine but futuristic ensemble.
The collection saw elements of almost every Prada collection produced to date, from sci-fi
style garments emphasising their ‘past meets future’ ethos to pieces representing their past
minimal moments, this collection was a true vision of Prada.
MaxMara
Organisation, Intentionality, and colour were the three elements of fashion that MaxMara’s
Creative Director Ian Griffiths highlighted through his FW22 collection. Deemed ‘modernist
magic’ the brand’s dedication to quality craftsmanship and wearable garments was clear
through the monochromatic looks.
In a bid to ‘make real clothes for real people’, Griffiths sent wearable red dresses, teddy fur
coats, and structured black blazers down the runway in matching hues; sticking to the
brand’s timeless chic and modern appeal.
Etro
Clashing prints and contrasting textures led the way on Etro’s runway. The Italian
Fashion House- renowned for 1980s paisley prints- combined leopard print with
pinstripes and velvet with sequins to create frenzied fashions which flowed on the
female form.
Celebrating high fashion, ETRO’s ‘Remix’ collection brought together all of the prints
and textiles that make couture fashion so exquisite. From metallics to animal print,
this collection combined inspiration from the land, sea, and sky to celebrate life and
fashion in all of its forms.
Gucci
Treating front-row A-listers like Rihanna and Jared Leto to the first glimpse of the
collaboration of our dreams; Adidas and Gucci debuted their unique partnership in
Gucci’s ‘Exquisite’ show.
In a carnival-like room, shrouded from floor to ceiling in mirrors, pink neon lights
created an air of mystery as celebrities long alleged to the brand took their seats.The show began with harmonic classical music as models trickled in, cementing the
lingerie as outerwear trend in lace stockings under fur-trimmed jackets. Gucci
Adidas’ menswear took inspiration from Parisian street style with electric blue berets
flaunting Adidas’ iconic three-stripe logo; combining the streetwear flair of Adidas
with Gucci’s high fashion silhouettes.
Peaceful symphonies blended to 80s Synthpop
tunes by Bronski Beat as models wearing metallic flight suits and stud-drenched
bags entered the runway with a new wave attitude to match the soundtrack they
walked to.
Act N.1
It makes sense that a brand inspired by infancy would produce a collection
celebrating glorious rebirth. With pregnant models and even babies adorning the
runway, Act N.1 produced a heartfelt maternal moment in Milan. Possibly inspired by
recent celeb maternity looks, the low-rise bump revealing co-ords drew comparisons
to Rihanna’s recent iconic pregnancy looks.
Designers Gassanoff and Lin also integrated their classic puffed polyester dresses
into the collection, the brand cultivated OTT gowns in a myriad of resplendent
shades like yellow and blue. Taking monochrome fashion to new heights, models at
the show had hair and face paint in the same shade as the bright garments they
wore. The collection served to remind us that a new generation of fashion is upon us.
Versace
Stealing the show in sultry red latex while radiating divine energy, the bewitching
Hadid sisters stormed the reflective runway with an attitude at Versace’s Milan show.
For her FW22 collection, Donatella Versace decided to bring sex, mystery, and
Versace glamour to Milan with an underwear as outerwear collection that was
simultaneously sultry and sleek.
The collection lived up to all of our expectations after Versace hinted at the show’s
revealing garments in an Instagram post, claiming a woman should ‘always leave
something to uncover’. The collection reiterated this message with slinky garments
that left just a little to the imagination like thigh-high boots, underwired corset-style
garments and slip dresses.
Palm Angels
When Francesco Ragazzi began his label in 2015, his focus was on bringing an
Italian interpretation of Californian skater culture to the high fashion scene. His FW22
show stayed faithful to this mission, featuring skater style ripped jeans, baggy tees,
and flame graphics with a luxury twist. Models wore baggy silhouettes contrasted by
high fashion silky fabrics to aid Ragazzis’ goal of filling the gap between couture and
street styles.
Philip Plein
Emerging from the flaming runway, models dressed in daringly dark eveningwear
that brought an intrepid punk attitude to Milan. German fashion designer Phillip Plein
created a punk rock inspired collection to produce garments that were unexpected
and bold.
Rarely diverging from the all-black memo of the collection, models strutted the
runway to loud techno music wearing garments that were versatile in shape and
style. With biker leather jackets followed by studded black dresses, the collection
brought 1960s biker attire to the 21st century.
Missoni
If there’s anything Missoni is known for it’s their knitwear and zigzag designs.
Incorporating the two, Missoni cultivated a collection that unexpectedly brought
knitwear- a textile traditionally associated with our grandparent’s wardrobe- to the
forefront of fashion week.
The zig-zag prints and knitted fabrics were used in an array of artful, eclectic ways.
From knee-length cardigans to psychedelic dresses, the collection was an ensembl
of colourful and enchanting craftsmanship.
Tod’s
Tod’s Day 4 show brought a beige revolution to Milan as nude garments brought a
simple and classic feel to the luxury collection. Stepping away from the chaotic
colour clashes eminent on most high fashion runways Tod’s Creative Director, Walter
Chiapponi, imagined looks that stood out for their minimal charm as models like Adut
Akesh graced the runway in bright white blouses and beige ponchos accessorised
minimally with structured purses and sturdy black belts.
Words by Olivia Booth
Photo Credits: Antonio Calanni
