After witnessing the first three days of fashion shows at the Milano Digital Fashion Week, we experienced a glance at new trends for the Spring/Summer 2021 collections from high-fashion brands, such as Moschino, Dolce&Gabbana, Prada, and Versace.
As the event slowly comes to an end, the last day of shows gives us the opportunity to focus on a variety of stylistic concepts and approaches, each one inspired by different topics. To wrap things up, here are the highlights from the last day of MDFW.
Children of the Discordance – ‘The Protect Archives II’
Children of the Discordance from The Fashion Channel
Influenced by the archival pieces of nine years of operation, the Japanese label debuted a collection that aims at deconstructing old garments and bringing them to life. The brand is most recognisable for its paisley patterns which are showcased on multiple pieces, including outwear jackets, shorts, anoraks and more. Persian patterns, rough edges, see-through sweaters and an impressive patchwork define the aesthetic of the collection, contrasted by strong use of dark and bright colours. Protect Archives II expresses the ‘discordance’ in which the designer, Hideaki Shikama, crafts his unique pieces.
Children of the Discordance – ‘The Protect Archives II’
JieDa – ‘Entitlement’
Jieda Spring/Summer 2021 by Menswear
JieDa’s Spring/Summer 2021 collection represents a kind of appeal to claim the right to live fashion with fun. The Japanese designer, Hiroyuki Fujita, found inspiration on Japanese culture to craft his designs which are reminiscent of the traditional street style. ‘Entitlement’ depicts the moment of transition to adulthood with a street-chic, yet formal, approach: high-waist and lose trousers, oversized jackets, suits and shirts are the protagonists of the man collection. Tone-wise, the designs are mainly neutral. From pitch black to grey and light-brown, the collection offers few shades of colours with some accents of blue, green and yellow.
Federico Cina ‘Corpi e Luoghi’
Federico Cina- ‘Corpi e Luoghi’ by Fashion Channel
Nostalgia and childhood memories dominate Federico Cina’s latest Spring/Summer collection: after spending years of his career abroad, the designer’s return to his roots emotionally inspired him to honour his family values and Italian heritage. ‘Corpi e Luoghi’ looks at the past with a warm and comfortable vision, showcasing fitted trousers, tailored suits and soft shirts. The bright red and white accents of the garments – often knitted together with a soft brown – offer a feeling of purity and tradition. The Romagna print, usually seen on tablecloths and now part of the brand, here adorns the designs to praise the beauty of the countryside and the memory of a happy childhood.
GUCCI – ‘Epilogue’
Gucci Epilogue from Gucci Youtube Channel
A huge contributor to the Milano Digital Fashion Week was Gucci: even in the midst of a global pandemic, the famous Italian brand didn’t fail the viewers, organising a 12-hour live-streamed photoshoot which ended with the reveal of ‘Epilogue’. In a release accompanying the collection, creative director Alessandro Michele described the collection as ‘the end of the beginning of an experiment’. The collection, which included a long catalogue of 76 different looks, featured both menswear and womenswear designs highly reminiscent of Michele’s off-kilter vintage aesthetic.
With Covid-19 causing some restrictions on the fashion show, Michele sought to invite his colleague designers to wear their own creations. ‘The clothes will be worn by those who created them. The designers with whom, every day, I share the daze of creation, will become the performers of a new story’, he said. The collection itself reflects a different take on fashion: without an idealised concept of beauty, the garments show a wide range of body types, focusing more on everyday life. ‘Epilogue’ is a continuation of Michele’s narrative from his previous projects that highlights a gender-fluid style characterised by colours, prints and patterns. From retro shirt-dresses, seventies suits, vintage outerwear to colourful frocks, floral gowns and cheerful accessories, the collection is everything one expects from Gucci. Yet, it shows some new directions too with oversized trousers, new bright sneakers and a preponderance of denim.
However, the brand’s ongoing collaborations made their appearance along with the collection, such as Disney’s Donald Duck print; the famous Japanese manga character Doraemon appeared on a monogrammed tote and lastly various Liberty London prints. Whether this is the final use of Michele’s specific aesthetic or not, the designer is constantly reinventing the brand and we can’t wait for a new beginning.
Ermenegildo Zegna – XXX
Ermenegildo Zenga Spring/Summer 2021 by Menswear
For the 110th anniversary of his brand, Alessandro Sartori presented a luminous runway show inside Oasi Zegna. With 42 fresh new looks walking down the imaginary runway, Zegna contrasted his soft tailored designs to the heavy industrial machines and historical archives, going through the woods towards Zegna’s wool mill roof.
Ermenegildo Zenga Spring/Summer 2021
‘XXX’ was all about soft modern tailoring, as told by Sartori. The collection includes oversized jackets made up of recycled wool, soft outwear shirts, and skinny trousers/shorts. The designer referred to the garments as hybrids between the new and traditional styles. The prints as well are part of Zegna’s archives from the 40s/50s and were adapted to the new trend of the tie-dye. The palette of colours was taken from Oasi Zegna: greys, light-blues, and pinks can be found in the striped fabric or the silk and cotton shirts. Sustainability was at the base of the collection which makes use of recycled fabric for the creation of cotton and denim gilet, light accessories such as fanny packs, and more. Zegna’s collection was one of the last shows of the event but certainly surprised the viewers with its innovative approach to modernity. Words by Gennaro Costanzo
Media from Official Designers
