New York Fashion Week 2025 delivered a dazzling showcase of creativity, courage and reinvention as designers redefined modern fashion through diverse narratives. From Marc Jacobs’ doll-like extravagance to Christian Siriano’s automotive inspired futurism, the week brimmed with theatricality and innovation. Veronica Leoni marked a historic moment for Calvin Klein with her minimalist yet sensual debut, while Patricio Campillo and Kim Shui challenged stereotypes through cultural juxtaposition and gender fluidity. With Elena Velez exploring nautical antihero archetypes and Anna Sui celebrating screwball comedies of the 1930s, the collections fused artistry with storytelling, cementing the week as a playground for visionaries who dared to dream beyond boundaries. Let’s take a closer look.
Marc Jacobs
Although not on the official calendar, Marc Jacobs kicked off New York Fashion Week three days early with a whimsical six-minute presentation at the New York Public Library. Titled Courage, the show celebrated bold self-expression and resilience in the face of uncertainty.
Jacobs showcased exaggerated silhouettes that blurred the lines between fantasy and fashion. Bubble skirts, puffy shoulders, oversized bows, and circus-worthy XXL toe pumps dominated the runway, evoking a doll-like aesthetic. Models moved with a childlike playfulness, accentuated by Pat McGrath’s ingenious beauty details, stick-on glittery beauty spots, red velvet circles, and sparkling lip embellishments. These touches referenced traditional notions of beauty while adding a playful abstraction.
The designer used the show to reflect on themes of creativity and vulnerability. “Fear is not my enemy, it is a necessary companion to creativity,” Jacobs noted in his show’s programme. This sentiment translated into the collection’s theatrical proportions and daring designs.
Among the audience were notable figures, including Sofia Coppola, Tracee Ellis Ross, and Jenna Lyons, seated in a single row that heightened the intimacy of the event. The finale saw Alex Consani strutting in a dramatic red gown and black XXL pumps, closing the show with a confident flourish. Once again, Jacobs proved that courage fuels imagination and pushes boundaries in fashion.
Christian Siriano
Christian Siriano’s collection was a high-octane fusion of futurism, technology, and Hollywood glamour, hosted in Chelsea, New York, on the 6thof February, the official first day of New York Fashion Week. The runway, featuring a red and black Toyota as a centrepiece, was transformed into a theatre of innovation. Siriano drew inspiration from the curves and lines of automobiles, translating them into striking silhouettes that redefined red carpet style. “The lines of a car to me look like the lines of a corset,” Siriano explained, encapsulating the harmony between structure and elegance in his designs.
Models strutted past rose beds in structured gowns and tailored suits, with red hues dominating the collection to symbolise power, love, and anger. “I was thinking of that iconic red car that you grew up loving,” Siriano shared, alluding to the emotional impact of the colour red. For Siriano, red is more than just a bold aesthetic choice; it’s a symbol of passion and intensity, perfectly mirroring the dynamic tension of the automotive world. The designs showcased creative references to automotive aesthetics, including latex-like fabrics resembling oil slicks, tyre track embroidery, and jersey dresses nodding to car interiors. Standout looks included a one-shouldered red tulle gown worn by Winnie Harlow and a blue cocooned mini dress that exuded modern edge.
The star-studded front row featured Katie Holmes, Whoopi Goldberg, Laverne Cox, Tiffany Haddish, and Bronwyn Newport who applauded Siriano’s bold approach to gender fluidity. Male models took to the runway in cropped jackets and wide-leg trousers, highlighting Siriano’s ongoing dedication to inclusivity. As Siriano put it, “Fashion is for everyone, no matter your shape, size, or gender.”
Closing with ethereal violin melodies, models posed in corseted eveningwear by the Toyota, delivering a dramatic crescendo to the event. Siriano’s innovative designs proved that the future of fashion is fearless, glamorous, and inclusive.
Calvin Klein Collection
Veronica Leoni’s debut for Calvin Klein at New York Fashion Week on February 7th was one of the most anticipated moments of the season, marking the brand’s return to the runway after six years. The first female creative director at Calvin Klein, Leoni brought a fresh approach to the brand’s minimalist legacy, creating a “24/7 wardrobe” that blended modern tailoring with sensuality. The collection featured sleek silhouettes, sharp tailoring, and luxurious fabrics inspired by the Calvin Klein archive. “I really tried to connect with his original energy, and we really tried to explore a 24/7 wardrobe, to give it a cinematic and a real reality” stated Leoni. Key pieces included dramatic wool coats, organza fur outerwear, and tactile textiles that added depth to the minimalist palette of blacks, greys, and off-whites.
Leoni’s designs, while modern and chic, also drew on her experiences at brands like Jil Sander and Céline, offering everyday essentials with a twist. The collection featured essentials like tailored suits, trench coats, and soft, draped jersey dresses, while retaining an air of subversive sensuality. Celebrities such as Kate Moss and Christy Turlington, Cooper Koch, as well as Calvin Klein himself, attended the intimate show. Leoni described her collection as an exploration of confidence rather than overt sex appeal, emphasising the power of simplicity and modern elegance. The show marked a bold new chapter for Calvin Klein, combining heritage with a distinctly contemporary edge.
Campillo
Patricio Campillo’s collection made a bold statement, drawing from his rich Mexican heritage and a personal exploration of gender fluidity and magical realism. Inspired by surrealist painter Remedios Varo, the collection blended charro tailoring with subverted gender norms, resulting in a striking mix of masculinity and femininity.
Campillo, a self-taught designer, focused on handcrafted textile manipulation, creating unique silhouettes that ranged from sensual and sharp to romantic and ethereal. He experimented with traditional menswear forms, such as cummerbunds transformed into corsets and trousers reimagined as skirts, showcasing his ability to challenge and redefine conventions. As Campillo himself put it, “I see this collection as an exploration of my reality as a queer Mexican designer,” which speaks to his deeply personal approach to challenging and redefining traditional menswear.
The collection’s most dramatic final piece, a jacket adorned with over 2,500 rooster feathers, was a nod to the designer’s love for fantastical elements. Campillo’s craftsmanship was evident in every detail, from the hand-stitched creases in his suits to the innovative draping techniques. His approach to design was undeniably influenced by his queer Mexican identity, as well as his desire to challenge stereotypes of Mexican culture. The presence of Bad Bunny, a key cultural icon, in the front row further amplified the collection’s relevance, while Bernie Martinez Ocasio, Bad Bunny’s brother, made a powerful statement as one of the models, adding familial depth to the show’s impact. Campillo’s collection successfully merged artistic ambition with technical skill, establishing him as a visionary in redefining contemporary menswear.
Kim Shui
Kim Shui’s runway show, held in the Upper East Side, redefined sensuality and restraint with a collection that merged bold textures, cultural symbols, and a gender-fluid approach to fashion. Drawing inspiration from Italian artist Monica Bonvicini’s leather belt artwork, Shui reimagined the material in new forms, deconstructing pleather into fringes, laser-cut details, and shredded textures. This transformation aimed to challenge pleather’s traditional associations with dominance and toughness, creating a striking contrast with its tactile, sensual appeal.
Shui’s design narrative explored themes of power, autonomy, and agency, highlighting the fluidity between masculinity and femininity. Cultural contrasts were central, with the fusion of Western influences such as cowboy hats and bolo ties alongside traditional Chinese motifs, including Qipao collars and frog closures. These details symbolised Shui’s ability to merge her Chinese heritage with Western sensibilities, creating a distinct, boundary-pushing aesthetic.
Among the guests were rapper Joey Bada$$ and his girlfriend, actress Serayah, who graced the chic front row. Orange Is the New Black star Dascha Polanco and Love Island alum Leah being also in attendance, further elevating the star-studded atmosphere. Artist and musician SAINt JHN was seen soaking in the show, underscoring the intersection of music and fashion at this high-profile event.
Throughout the 43-look collection, Shui’s exploration of the snake symbol, a representation of renewal and rebirth, was evident, with snakeskin prints and serpentine motifs woven into structured gowns and tailored trousers. The inclusion of provocative accessories, like the butt-shaped pleather bags, further reinforced Shui’s desire to challenge societal norms and perceptions of gender, identity, and power in fashion. “It’s less about following boundaries and more about removing them” stated Shui. This collection marks a significant evolution in Shui’s career, where sensuality, control, and cultural juxtaposition seamlessly converged.
Anna Sui
Anna Sui transported New York Fashion Week audiences into a world of eccentric glamour with her Fall/Winter 2025 collection, drawing inspiration from 1930s screwball comedies and the lavish lifestyles of American heiresses. With muses like Barbara Hutton, Doris Duke, and Peggy Guggenheim, the collection reimagined their opulent, uninhibited wardrobes for the modern era.
Set in the elegant National Arts Club, the show opened with Rita Hayworth’s “Bewitched, Bothered and Bewildered,” perfectly setting the tone for a lineup rich in vintage charm and playful decadence. Models strutted down the runway draped in faux-mink coats, pleated lamé dresses, and leopard-print shoes, a direct nod to Bringing Up Baby’s iconic pet leopard. Layering played a crucial role in Sui’s signature styling, as tweeds, lace, brocade, and Fair Isle knits clashed harmoniously, accessorised with estate-style jewellery and Peggy Guggenheim inspired sunglasses.
“I styled these looks much the way I see young people incorporating vintage finds into their personal wardrobes,” Sui explained. “Nothing head-to-toe, just a mix of trophy pieces.”
The collection felt like a love letter to fashion’s past, infused with a sense of escapism that resonated deeply with today’s desire for individuality and self-expression.
LaPointe
On Super Bowl Sunday, Sally LaPointe’s collection was a testament to endurance, both in theme and execution. Marking 15 years in the industry, the designer leaned into her signature aesthetic bold, vibrant, and unapologetically glamorous, while weaving in a sports-inspired narrative. The runway, set against the unexpected backdrop of the National Basketball Players Association, was charged with energy, kicked off by a dynamic performance from Supa Girlz. This choice of venue and entertainment reinforced LaPointe’s emphasis on agility and perseverance, concepts mirrored in the structure and movement of her designs.
The collection showcased LaPointe’s signature monochromatic styling, with an electrifying palette that included acidy green, hot pink, and deep cognac red. Statement outerwear dominated the runway, featuring plush fur, leopard calf, vinyl, and organza. Feathers, sequins, and crystal embellishments added drama, ensuring each look was ready for the spotlight. Standout pieces included feather-adorned chaps, stretch sequin bodysuits, and georgette caped jackets. Accessories, such as crystallised basketball handbags, tied the collection seamlessly to its theme. “I got to have fun with this collection,” LaPointe said, and that playful energy was perfectly reflected in her show.
With a star-studded front row, including Law Roach, Kris Jenner, Jordyn Woods, and singer Monica, the show reaffirmed LaPointe’s ability to blend high fashion with high-energy spectacle. More than a collection, it was a celebration of resilience, creativity, and the designer’s unwavering vision.
Elena Velez
Elena Velez transported her audience into a dark, immersive maritime world with her New York Fashion Week collection, Leech. Hosted at Artechouse, the presentation blurred the lines between fashion and digital art, as guests descended into a former boiler room transformed into a deep-sea dreamscape. Silhouettes of lighthouses and ghostly ships loomed on the walls, while ocean waves lapped against the soundscape. This wasn’t merely a runway show, it was a theatrical descent into the mythology of womanhood, shaped by Velez’s fascination with contentious female archetypes.
Velez’s designs embodied the essence of the siren, the sailor, and the seductress. Netting, leather, and latex-dipped fabrics mimicked the look of garments drenched at sea, while ropes and metal hardware reinforced the maritime theme. Standout pieces included a black strapless mini dress with white ruffle detailing that evoked seafoam, and pirate-style paper-bag trousers that hinted at a rebellious spirit. The show also reflected Velez’s own narrative her mother, a ship captain, has long influenced her work.
“No plan B I’ll sink with my ship,” Velez declared, reinforcing her uncompromising vision. With Leech, she embraced the antihero, crafting a collection that challenged stereotypes and cemented her place as fashion’s renegade.
New York Fashion Week 2025 proved once again that the city remains a powerhouse of creativity, reinvention, and boundary-pushing artistry. From Marc Jacobs’ whimsical theatricality to Christian Siriano’s futuristic glamour and Veronica Leoni’s refined minimalism at Calvin Klein, each designer brought a unique perspective to the runway. Patricio Campillo and Kim Shui challenged conventions through cultural and gender-fluid storytelling, while Anna Sui’s nostalgic glamour and Elena Velez’s dark maritime fantasy showcased the transformative power of fashion. As the week came to a close, one thing was clear, New York remains a stage where designers dare to dream, redefine tradition, and set the tone for the future of fashion.
Words by Claire Gaura
