This year’s New York Fashion Week hasn’t been like the others. With all the problems the pandemic has caused, the designers were left with a rather harsh question to answer with their new projects: what do you wear when the world is falling apart?From September the 11th until the 16th, during only the last 4 days, designers had to plan their runway shows in respect of safety measures with either a Livestream or a socially distanced audience. Yet, they have managed to portray a colourful and hopeful world through the lens of fashion. Among the many incredible and creative Spring/Summer 2021 ready-to-wear collections, we selected the highlights of the fashion week.
Jason Wu
As the opening show of the NYFW, Jason Wu’s collection didn’t fail its expectations. Set against a tropical background, the theme of the collection was an imaginative holiday in Tulum, Mexico. Surrounded by tropical plants, the designer showcased his bright and warm maxi dresses and suiting in bold accents of yellow, blue and orange. The garments feature different patterns: from vertical stripes to multidimensional flowers which highlight the silhouettes in bulky trousers and jumpsuits. Innovative is the use of a bra top above the flowy dresses.
Jason Wu SS21 Collection images via Dan Lecca
Jason Wu | Spring/Summer 2021 | NYFW
Rodarte
Aimed at comfort, Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s new collection reflects a dreamy and fancy reality to emphasise the importance of making fashion during these trying times. Characterized by a bridal theme, the collection offers a tribute to the ‘40s dresses style with floral prints, handkerchief-like motifs and pastel shades. The comfort
resides in most of the garments with pyjama sets, soft track pants, silk sweatshirts, twill trousers and midi-skirts. Everything is then topped off with tulle or silk floral wreaths, bobby socks and lace gloves.
Rodarte SS21 Collection images via Daria Kobayashi Ritch
Christian Siriano
From the backyard of his home in Westport, Siriano presented his new glamorous collection to a socially distanced audience. Inspired by his childhood favourite films – which he binge-watched during quarantine time – the collection features a multitude of bikini tops, frocks, bulky ball skirts and patterned suits, all styled with Sarah Jessica Parker’s high heels line. The palette balanced neutral colours like black and white with more vivid ones, such as pink and red. While also spreading a relevant message with a dress covered in ‘Vote’ quotes, the designer retained his signature style with pronounced shoulder frocks, flamenco ruffles and winged sleeves. The highlight of the show was the red closing look worn by Coco Rocha who, willingly, stepped into the pool to gift the audience a wow-moment.
Christian Siriano SS21 Collection images via Dan Lecca
Tom Ford
Longing for an escape from the seriousness of this world, Tom Ford opted for an optimistic collection which, as he puts it, ‘will make you smile’. Inspired by a documentary about the fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez, the designs are what you can expect from a fun collection: patterned silky pyjamas, bikinis, knit maxi dresses and vivid logo leisure sets. Throughout the garments, there’s a predominance of animal and floral prints, styled with eccentric accessories.
Tom Ford SS21 Collection images via Vogue Runway courtesy of Tom Ford
Zimmermann
Last but not least, Nicky Zimmermann showcased her ‘Wild Botanica’ collection inspired by her home country, Australia. From the title itself, we can understand that the collection is strongly influenced by the Australian flora and fauna: the garments feature, for instance, the prints of a botanical illustrator, Ellis Rowan, which depicts different kinds of flowers and birds. Each piece presents a unique feature: from lace crop tops and soft suitings to colourful puff dresses, linen trousers and Bermuda shorts. The simple but detailed silhouettes enhance the effect of the prints which make each garment easy to spot, even at a socially-distant range. The mixture of bold and bright prints makes the collection very feminine and soft, without the risk of being childish.
Zimmermann SS21 Collection images via Vogue Runway courtesy of Zimmermann
Zimmermann | Spring/Summer 2021 | NYFW – Digital Show
Words by Genarro Costano
Graphics by Frances Scott
