Day three of Haute Couture Week was straight from a dream. From Pirates to pixies, designers took inspiration from a Goddess’ enchanted realm for day three’s collections.
Jean Paul Gaultier
“A celebration of Gaultier” is how the collection’s designer Glenn Martens chose to describe the wonders of pinstripes, zebra prints, and gothic bridal looks that graced Jean Paul Gaultier’s runway last night. The collection featured unyielding 3D illusion- style black and white gowns which were said to be inspired by the “pure diva goddess” garments Jean Paul Gaultier created in the 1980s.
As the show continued the gowns became more reminiscent of 16th Century gowns fit for a queen. Dresses in royal colours of moss green and purple with enormous ruched skirts were a highlight of the collection. Front row guests of the show like musician Bilal Hassani said they were “in awe of the amazing collection” (and so are we).
Photography: Arnaud Lajeunie
Franck Sorbier
Sorbier’s video showcase began in the dusky setting of an old Parisian backstreet. A male voice mused in French as the scene dissolved to a series of blue textures and hues, inspired by the movement of the ocean.
In a dream-like scene, dancer Adele Borde stood in an ethereal gown, made of feathers, as graphics of water and flowers washed over her. The dress emulates the zestful hues of the sunset as feathers in burnt orange and lemon swung from the dancer’s petite frame.
Furthering the fairytale collection, Sorbier showcased a lime green dress, which evoked memories of magical Tinkerbelle costumes worn by children playing dress-up. The show’s playful spirit was emphasised by the doll-like movement the dancer exhibited. Sorbier’s show ended with a quote from Eleanor Roosevelt: “The future belongs to those who believe in their dreams.” It is safe to say Sorbier’s fantastical collection will be in our dreams tonight.
Photography: Grégoire Vallet
Zuhair Murad
Walking the plank or walking the runway? Zuhair Murad’s pirate-inspired collection ensures you’ll look breathtaking either way. Model’s on the Lebanese designer’s runway sported pirate-style hats and colourful jewels embellished into garments, reminiscent of those found in a pirate’s treasure chest.
When speaking of his inspiration behind the collection, the designer said that pirates represent bravery and confidence, something he believes people need after the turbulence of the past two years.
Photography: Isidore Montag
Valentino
Pier Paolo Piccioli’s ‘Anatomy of Couture’ Collection dissects couture and what it means for our bodies to be in rhythm with the garments we dress them in. The Italian Fashion House showcased floral ball gowns and sheer sequined shirts replicating that of a knight’s armour. Piccioli played with a vast array of materials from velvet to snakeskin to cultivate a collection celebrating the beauty of differences.
In his bid to rewrite the meaning of couture, Piccioli dressed models of all ethnicities, body types, ages, and genders. The collection demonstrates clothing’s ability to perfectly mould to anyone’s body regardless of shape or background.
Guests of the show had to stick to an all-black dress scheme to allow Valentino’s colourful garments to stand out among the crowd. But this wasn’t an issue for bloggers attending the show like Lena Mahfouf who said black was her confident colour anyway
Watch Valentino’s Haute Couture runway here.
Photography: Alessandro Lucioni
Viktor & Rolf
There wasn’t a shoulder insight at Viktor&Rolf’s Spring Couture show. Each model’s upper body was enveloped in gothic-chic garments inspired by old Dracula films. With shoulder pads that towered over the body, the collection stayed faithful to the brand’s ethos of taking an ‘unconventional approach to fashion.’ The eerie garments matched the model’s burgundy lips and talon length nails.
Guests who attended the show like Fashion Expert Zadrian Smith deemed it ‘intense, otherworldly drama’ and we can’t think of a better way to describe a collection straight from a Tim Burton movie.
Watch Viktor & Rolf’s Haute Couture runway here.
Photography: Alessandro Lucioni
Elie Saab
Saab took the bridal chic look to the next level with his princess-inspired Spring Couture Collection. The collection was an ode to the Mediterranean, so gowns in peach and arctic blue were made to represent the colours of the ocean. Some dresses were submerged in glitter, others featured hundreds of pieces of folded material, creating the enchanting illusion that butterflies had flocked to nestle on model’s skirts.
As the show drew to a close, the lighting dimmed to an intimate amber hue and a show-stopping dress emerged from the curtains. Those on the front row, like Micheal Coste, dashed to snap a picture of the final look: a glorious mermaid-style gown, complete with intricate lace detail, a long veil, and a train that followed the model around the runway.
Photography: Filippo Fior
Rahul Mishra
Indian designer Mishra’s ‘The Enchanted’ collection lives up to its name. The video show was an alluring vision of fantasy from start to finish. Set in an enchanted forest, models Gunjan and Laxmi wore garments bursting with colour and floral patterns. Butterflies rested on the ruched material of the pixie-inspired garments. When talking about the show, Mishra described his collection as a ‘work of fantasy’, distorting the lines between reality and dreams.
Photography courtesy of Rahul Mishra
Words by Olivia Booth
Header graphics: Jean Paul Gaultier, Zuhair Murad, Valentino, Elie Saab
