The Peckham-based designer closed London Fashion Week 2021 with a powerful performance. Spring 2022 ready-to-wear encompassed the signature aesthetic of Quinn’s house with ballooning ballgowns, latex layering and floral galore – but as Quinn explained to Vogue, this collection is not without surprises: it’s ‘almost like we’ve gone into our archive and slashed it’.
The show took place at the central location of The Londoner Hotel, in attendance was everyone from Kate Moss (supporting her daughter Lila Grace in the show) to Boy George, Drag-Race icons, Bimini Bon Boulash and Tayce, Derry-girl Nicola Coughlan, and Mabel.
Initial looks opened by referencing the full-body leotards (typically, in latex) which have become a signature for the brand, worn by Kendall Jenner, Cardi B, and Kim Petras. But something is different about them. The bodysuits have a looser fit and come in an array of bright, block colours; they are more comfortable and wearable for the everyday though still include Quinn’s touches of attached gloves, and trousers which stretch to cover even the model’s shoes.
Photo Credits: Courtesy of RICHARD QUINN
Next is an array of quilted floral looks, a Richard Quinn staple. Full-face coverage of floral prints has been replaced with frilly bonnets encircling the model’s face, perhaps this is a more practical solution to achieve head-to-toe coverage? Gorgeous contrasts are achieved between the pastel florals and black or brown gloves, bonnets, and various undergarments.
Photo Credits: Courtesy of RICHARD QUINN
Some of the models appear on the runway with minimalist brown totes, resembling a sized-up paper bag but made out of a heavy, lustrous fabric which implies luxury design reinspiring an everyday object. More large bags arrived on the runway, matching the quilted effect created on puffer jackets via ballooning and stretching. These bubble-like bags match the head-to-toe floral looks constructed of quilted gilets, leggings, bonnets, gloves, and cape-like dresses.
A return to royalty which often inspires Richard Quinn appeared in the form of corsets and mini dresses with the appearance of short petticoats. A galore of intricate jewels and sequins created the appearance of royal dress seen in portraits where layers upon layers of rich, luxury jewels were stacked on complex garments.
Photo Credits: Courtesy of RICHARD QUINN
Quite literally, Quinn’s description that it’s ‘almost like we’ve gone into our archive and slashed it’, comes alive when the gowns arrived on the runway. Voluptuous, ballooning ballgowns appear bisected, with trousers and leggings peering out from between the flowing, detached material of the skirt. Simple blocks of colour come together in the gowns effectively, creating divisions between draped tops, pleated skirts, and the leggings or trousers peeking out underneath the ensemble.
The collection closes with a gorgeous cobalt-blue mini dress of tiered pleated layers paired with neon green accents, a reflective purple dress ruched to create an elevated train, and a simplistic white long-sleeve, a-line dress caged by tulle flowers and sparkling wire.
This collection proved Richard Quinn is constantly evolving, re-thinking signatures and offering a new perspective for buyers every season. It is clear that the marks of latex, florals and head-to-toe coverage are here to stay at Richard Quinn but that does not mean the looks are placed within an immovable box. Rather Quinn accepts the challenge to reinvent and evolve what are already staples of the brand, and generate excitement as to what we can expect at the next London Fashion Week!
Words by Caitlin Sahin
