If we asked you to name two things that you would expect to see at Paris Fashion Week, we’re pretty certain that spoons and a robotic dog would be quite low on your list. However, that is exactly what we saw. The fashion world is always five steps ahead, throwing the unexpected at us with every turn, this Paris Fashion Week was a true testament to this fact. So, with that being said, leave all of your expectations at the door as we rundown all the key shows from the final week of the ‘Big Four’.
Paco Rabanne
Paris Fashion Week marked design house Paco Rabanne’s return to the runway since the passing of the founder himself. Paco Rabanne passed away just last month, making this show a particularly emotional one, as this show honoured his work and contributions to the industry. Julien Dossena decided to pay homage to the late designer by focusing on his friendship with Salvador Dali. This meant that the show featured an array of dresses with Dali’s paintings printed on them as well as some of his extravagant jewellery.
While this may make it seem like a collection that honoured Salvador Dali more than Paco Rabanne, this was not the case. The show was unapologetically Paco, the sparkling metallic chainmail looks that have become synonymous with the brand closed the show, accentuating the late designers continuing influence on the industry. The sparkling archival looks reminded us of Paco Rabanne’s innovative designs and trademark looks, leaving the audience with this as their final thoughts from the collection.
Acne Studios
Acne Studios took the distressed look to a whole new level in their mystical show. The enchanted forest set the stage for a collection that celebrated the natural world and particularly Jonny Johansson’s childhood in Sweden. The distressed wool and crochet knits played into this natural influence along with the neutral colour palette. The ultimate manifestation of this theme came to light in the various leaf-like dresses that took to the catwalk, bringing the Swedish forest to the runway.
These natural elements and the mystical set up created a jarring juxtaposition with the distressed, almost-apocalyptic looks. The combination of these elements served to create a natural and earthy aesthetic that was far removed from the highly technological looks that we have been seeing as of late. One interesting way that this came to light was through the use of the body as a canvas, which Johansson stated was “a way to make them become a window onto nature”.
Photo Credits: Acne Studios
Hodakova
Hodakova’s “Conventional Collection 112303” was inspired by a humble household object, the spoon. Whether they were covering bags, dresses or creating the cups on bralettes the kitchen utensils were everywhere. Inspired by the Swedish folktale Nail Soup that tells the story of a (you guessed it) soup made from a nail, the collection celebrated ingenuity. In addition to spoons, fabric spikes covered punk-inspired skirts and dresses in a nail-like fashion.
Some of the non-spoon related looks featured elaborate tulle, sheer fabrics and intricate silhouettes. There were examples of exceptional tailoring as sleek suits took to the runway. And finally, the collection, of course, did not come without HODAKOVA’s signature buckle bags that have taken the fashion world by storm.
Rick Owens
Rick Owens is known for the outrageous; this collection was no exception. From metallic pink puffers to sleek waist high leg slits, we saw it all in what can only be described as a maximalists’ dream. Each model took to the runway in sky-high platform boots that sagged around the leg in the way a loose-fitted trouser would; a shoe that we believe will be everywhere this Autumn/Winter. The predominantly black collection heavily played with textures and proportions creating extravagant silhouettes and shapes in the absence of colour.
While most of the looks were black, Owens injected some colour through the metallic pink and green looks in the collection that were anything but subtle. Refusing to sacrifice the playful and experimental aspects of these looks in the pursuit of colour, Rick Owens just decided to do it all. The pink sequin donut-like garments stole the show, and we cannot wait to see which celebrity is brave enough to wear one of these looks on the red carpet.
Photo Credits: Rick Owens
Coperni
Coperni, always the master of a viral moment. The designer that brought us the iconic spray on dress, a moment that won Bella Hadid Model of the Year at the British Fashion Awards, has created yet another talkable moment. The show was inspired by Jean de la Fontaine’s fable ‘The Wolf and the Lamb’ fable, Coperni’s Instagram explained:
“Unlike the original fable written in the 17th century, which raises questions relating to the balance of power between the human groups that make up society, Coperni reinterprets the story and transposes it to the year of 2023 with a positive vision of the future.
The show presents Coperni’s vision which is that there is neither a dominant nor a dominated, but that mankind and machine can live in harmony.”
This inspiration was visible in the designs through the painted landscapes on jackets and the white fluffy pieces that likened the models to sheep. All in all, the collection placed a modern and urban twist on the pastoral tale.
Even though the show featured models such as Adut Akech and Lila Moss, the star of the show was none other than Spot (or multiple Spots) the robotic dog. The Boston Dynamics robots took to the runway as aids in the storytelling, but they soon stole the show as one Spot interacted with model Rianne Van Rompaey. This particular Spot had an elongated robotic arm (or neck) that allowed the two to lock eyes before Spot began to undress the model, removing the thick blanket that wrapped around her shoulders and handing it back to her.
While critics may argue that this show along with the last were dependant on gimmicks, more concerned with going viral on social media than the clothes at hand, we feel that these moments at shows are integral in Coperni’s exploration of technology within both fashion and modern life. As Coperni said that this was a more relaxed moment following on from the magic of their spray on dress last season, we are very excited to see what they do next.
Ester Manas
Inspired by her upcoming wedding to Balthazar Delepierre, Ester Manas created a collection for the cool bride. The show took place in a church and was soundtracked by some of the most universally recognised love songs, a route that the couple will not be taking at their own wedding. The looks, however, were entirely non-traditional and non-conforming.
From two pieces to completely sheer gowns, these dresses were for the ‘it’ brides only. The diverse display of models seemed like the brides that you would be begging for a hen party invite from and you bet that we would be wearing one of the less bridal looks from the collection if we managed to bag an invite.
Photo Credits: Ester Manas
Valentino
If you’re going to take one thing away from the Valentino show, let it be this: Go and buy a tie. Ties have been popping up in the fashion girls’ wardrobes for a hot minute now, but they are about to experience the Pierpaolo Piccioli effect. The collection, aptly named ‘Black Tie’, utilised the accessory on every look in some capacity. Some were styled classically, with the black tie set against a white shirt under a blazer while others were dresses with faux shirt collars and ‘ties’ that connected to the dress’ bodice. Whether a conventional depiction of the tie or not, this collection singlehandedly proved the versatility of the accessory that has often been associated with the constraints of a work or school uniform. So, go buy a tie.
Photo Credits: Valentino
Zimmermann
19th-Century Australian artist Rupert Bunny left Melbourne and settled in Paris when he married Jeanne Morel, a journey not dissimilar to Zimmermann’s. The Australian fashion house held its second show in Paris this season and drew on Bunny’s art as inspiration. The collection worked with the National Gallery of Victoria to incorporate the painter’s works into the looks through delicate prints and a romantic colour palette. Nicky Zimmermann explained:
“For Fall I was inspired by the artwork of Rupert Bunny, an Australian artist from the turn of the last century. I was drawn to his use of colour and the romanticism of his work – the gentle and dreamy lifestyle scenes. There is a glow, warmth and optimism to his work that is really appealing to me.”
However, this is not where the melding of French and Australian fashion ends. The usual romantic eveningwear was prominent throughout the collection; however, this season featured a surprising guest, the humble denim jean. The delicate lace and florals that we are used to seeing from the design house were paired with loose fitting jeans in the perfect blending of the relaxed style we see in Australia and the romanticism of France. This collection served as a map of Zimmermann’s history as it honoured both its origin and current destination in one fell swoop.
Photo Credits: Zimmermann
Words by: Amelia Gregory
Header Image: Valentino, Ester Manas, Paco Rabanne
