While Copenhagen is frequently seen as the younger sister to fashion week giants Paris, New York, London, and Milan, Copenhagen has really had its moment in the spotlight this August. From fresh, new talent to designer veterans, Danish labels have been gracing our senses proving that the sleek, Scandi style deserves our full attention. In a celebration of Copenhagen’s finest, here we explore six key designers from the SS25 runways, delving into their inspirations, process, and uncompromising talent.
(DI)Vision
Founded by siblings Nanna & Simon Wick in late 2018, (Di)vision’s bold, playful, and divisive designs scream of innovation.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C-kM2M3tXqs/?img_index=4
With sustainability at the heart, (Di)vision’s brand ethos is creating from what already is. Creative sourcing of material from upcycling, reconstructing, and redesigning forms the pillars of the brand and adequately sets them apart from the crowd.
After their debut in 2018 with their custom workwear jackets, Wick stays true to the fairy grunge allure, frequently incorporating creative zippers into their pieces to produce an urban maximalist feel. These fun, edgy looks are very denim and cargo heavy staying true to their ‘downtown’ style, but Wick has also chosen to explore lighter tones and lace detailing, leaning into a subtly demure undertone to their edgy streetwear.
https://www.instagram.com/di_vsn/
OpéraSPORT
Founded in 2019 by long-time friends Stephanie Gundelach and Awa Malina Stelter, OpéraSPORT forms the perfect bridge between Paris and Copenhagen to expertly marry timeless elegance and sleek activewear.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C-GD62dvi-L/
Working to fight over-production and waste, OpéraSPORT’s production only covers recycled or organic fabrics to yield a production volume that expertly reflects the demand.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C-GD62dvi-L/
At Copenhagen 2024, OpéraSPORT have achieved a beautiful blend of two iconic cities, encompassing Paris’ sophisticated and feminine demeanour with Copenhagen’s athletic and practical style, giving each look that perfect je ne sais quoi. OpéraSPORT’s use of silk in particular expertly utilises the material’s natural shine to blend an association between high-class fabrics and Lycra active wear.
Sinéad O’Dwyer
Winner of the 2024 Zalando Visionary Award, Sinéad O’Dwyer is a forerunner in the integration of the feminine and the tough to expertly curate an elegant yet almost industrial design.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C-pG4vbtCYD/?img_index=1
However, its O’Dwyer’s unique take on the human body itself that sets her apart from the crowd. “Diverse bodies are at the core of their design process, from research and development to the final product. This passion and care for the human body in all its iterations and their radical approach to design, sampling and production is what makes them unique” reads the brochure for SS25 at Copenhagen Fashion Week. O’Dwyer manages to almost make the clothes secondary to the model, instead showcasing the beauty of the human form first and foremost in a celebration of natural curves and beauty Aphrodite would be proud of.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C-pGaWaNDx8/?img_index=1
https://www.instagram.com/p/C-pHEp6tpgt/?img_index=1
To do this, the pieces are subtle and carefully designed to not overwhelm the model, but instead accentuate form and colour by focussing on earth tones with highlights of a deep blue denim in a gorgeous homage to the Earth.
Berner Kühl
Frederik Berner Kühl is a fantastic up-and-coming talent diving into a traditional Scandi aesthetic with an elevated, modern approach that reads as sophisticated and cultured. Striving to convey his vision in ultimate materiality, Kühl focuses on grey-scale tones to allow his explorational textures and fabrics to speak for themselves, driving the pieces.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C-VE3RgsOR3/?img_index=5
Creating menswear with a signature Danish sensibility, his SS25 runway showcased practical coats and jackets for next spring and summer, among expert layering to elude style and functionality.
Han Kjøbenhavn
Founded in 2008, style veteran Han Kjøbenhavn are still making waves through their innovative designs and daring shape work.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C-kKvPjO1LF/?img_index=1
Focusing on shape in their work, the vision of Han Kjøbenhavn is bold and captivating silhouettes that captivate the audience and demand attention. Utilising dark and subdued colours not only provides an overarching grunge-feel to the collection, but really allows the avant-garde materials and structure to sing. However, these cutting-edge looks still remain reminiscent of the iconic Copenhagen, birthplace of Han Kjøbenhavn, with uncompromising craftmanship and attention to subtle details that the Danish do so well.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C-lJ2_TMI2N/
The exaggeration of the human form through the pieces, most notably around the neck and shoulders, promote a regal, powerful undertone to their runway and creates a natural yet untouchable feel.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C-nsdFZMHGf/?img_index=1
https://www.instagram.com/p/C-kKvPjO1LF/?img_index=1
Baum Und Pferdgarten
Leading Danish fashion house Baum Und Pferdgarten have been perfecting their practice since 1999. Where runway meets downtown, Baum Und Pferdgarten have mastered the art of inclusivity by designing captivating pieces that can be worn by anyone in an innovating streetwear collective.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C-nNn8GOA3W/?img_index=7
https://www.instagram.com/p/C-nrkWdtwFy/?img_index=5
An athletic undertone runs through their SS25 collection through the incorporation of stripes, jerseys, football accessories, and baseball caps in an effortless nod to a vintage style while remaining rooted in the contemporary. Through structures tailoring and bold colours, Baum Und Pferdgarten’s SS25 runway is reminiscent of American country club aesthetics, combining timeless style with luxury sportwear to elude a high-class yet effortless and relaxed beauty.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C-nGsyEzrT_/?img_index=1
Written By Isobel O’Connor
