While Paris is home to the world’s most well-known luxury brands, there have been newer names making their mark on the French capital’s fashion scene in recent seasons. Fashion is being reinterpreted as the next generation muses on society’s most timely and relevant issues. From Botter’s Mother Earth tribute to the fiery, confrontational creativity of Vaquera. Young creatives are taking the reins at legendary houses like Courrèges and Rochas, igniting Paris with new energy. Get the latest on this season’s couture in our mid-week roundup.
Victor Weinsanto
Paris Fashion Week got underway on Monday with Victor Weinsanto, a protege of Jean-Paul Gaultier. The designer’s collection was a walking dedication to his muses. Models walked the runway in garments displaying the influences of his close artistic friends, interpreted with the Weinsanto touch, of course.
Weinsanto said his collection is a “declaration of love” to his generation, inspired by fellow young designers. Yet, a night of folly is what comes to mind in this spring collection. A general lighter colour palette was complemented by dashes of upbeat oranges, greens and yellows. He continues to work with his best sellers, like the bomber jacket, jeans, sweats, and dungarees, which are all mixed with extravagant couture pieces. His cabaret proclivities were on full display, as models strutted in wore no little more than embroidered rope detailing. But interspersed between sheer garments and lashed corset dresses were terrific coatdresses, a trend that seems to be sweeping Europe.
A scene from the fin de soirée was captured in the collection.
Photo credit: François Quillacq
Benjamin Benmoyal
“Using nostalgia to create something new and desirable”
A collection inspired by his personal history in the army, Benjamin Benmoyal’s runway, filled with floral upcycled spring looks, transcribes innocence and serenity.
The creative director created unique fabrics by weaving his childhood VHS Disney movie tapes. Benmoyal states that this is an “allegory of the will to recover the innocence stolen by the army.”
This collection also draws influence from traditional Moroccan clothes from the 30s. In his collection, Benmoyal reinterprets the volumes and drapes of traditional Moroccan outfits. Alongside caftans and loose shirts punctuated with bold stripes and multicoloured buttons were jacquards inspired by the works of Monet.
Photo credits: Courtesy of Benjamin Benmoyal
Vaquera
This year Vaquera, led by Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee, took over DSM’s Parisian grounds with an androgynous perspective in mind.
Its rugged appeal came through angular boat hats with cascading bows that carried hints of Caribbean sailors. These were paired with acid-washed, cropped denim jackets, voluminous skirts, and metallic corsets. The garments were tattered yet refined, and keys dangled from them along with fluffy teddy bears. Flowing dresses were paired with satin sets accented with jumbo lapels, ruffles, centre ribbons and swaying chain belts.
Although in the fashion capital of Europe, the duo’s showstopping piece celebrated their home turf with a rebellious American flag dress that draped down the model.
Photo credits: Daniele Oberrauch
Botter
Botter has flourished over the past few seasons. The label is known for its fusion of couture and sporty motifs into flirtatious ensembles that are based on rich Caribbean references.
This season, Botter pays homage to Mother Earth by using oceanic references and a lot of water (literally). This collection is characterised by vibrant blue hues, contrasting blacks, browns, oranges and greys. The first look set the tone for this collection as the model walked the runway in a tucked-in blazer and undershirt paired with ever so slightly loose trousers. The earthy brown and ocean blue- symbolise the colours of the earth. What filled the audience with surprise was that the model’s hands were inside water-filled condoms.
“We really want to bring water to the runway,” Botter said. “Our thinking was how can we collaborate with nature and not with another fashion brand? This is something that we’ve tried to research deeper and deeper every season.”
Their silhouettes also kept the ocean at the forefront of this collection.
A slim-fit T-shirt features playful dolphins and coastal scenes adorned with rhinestones, while slip dresses feature deep-sea graphics and button-up shirts feature cartoon sea life. As an extra layer of protection, knitted face masks supplement belted jumpsuits or peeled coats made of protective neoprene, akin to wetsuits.
Photo credits: Salvatore Dragone
Mame Kurogouchi
As inspiration for the Spring Summer 2023 Collection, Mame Kurogouchi draws on the rich tradition of bamboo baskets. This collection explores the changing weaving techniques developed in bamboo baskets throughout their evolution, as well as the tension, force, and tranquillity within the material itself. A champion of Japanese craft, Kurogouchi inherited this attitude from her mentor, the late Issey Miyake.
A poetic interpretation of bamboo baskets was showcased on this runway, from intricately embroidered vests to sheer ensembles and a sculptural top made with sakiori rag weaving dyed in dark shades of blackened brown.
Photo credits: Daniele Oberrauch
Victoria/Tomas
In celebration of the brand’s tenth anniversary, Victoria/Tomas unveiled its Spring/Summer 2023 collection at Paris Fashion Week.
This season Victoria/Tomas’ collection is a blend of streetwear and seductive.
Tone-on-tone heart appliqués adorned straight-cut khaki jackets, giving them a cute touch to utilitarian shapes. The collection also featured a series of mini dresses made of scraps from previous collections embellished with vertical stripes and an edgy bomber jacket adorned with tulle and sequins. With a base of classic black, the colour palette features several blue hues, pinks, greens, and yellows, along with neutral tans.
Tone-on-tone heart appliqués adorned straight-cut khaki jackets, giving them a cute touch to utilitarian shapes. The collection also featured a series of mini dresses made of scraps from previous collections embellished with vertical stripes and an edgy bomber jacket adorned with tulle and sequins. With a base of classic black, the colour palette features several blue hues, pinks, greens, and yellows, along with neutral tans.
Photo credits: Courtesy of Victoria/Tomas
Dior
An enchanting show in an equally magical location in Paris.
Maria Grazia Chiuri showed off her SS23 ready-to-wear collection from Dior during Paris Fashion Week and was inspired by women in power. Using silhouettes, structure, technical advancements in fabric manipulation, and more to accentuate the wearer and their body, Dior’s collection made a feminist statement this season with a tribute to Catherine de Medici.
There can be no doubt that the collection contains many details dating back to Catherine de Medici’s time. The quasi-geometric corsets, wide skirts and dresses and the luxurious lace are directly linked to her recognisable court costumes. The collection stays true to the Baroque era’s styling motifs.
In the Baroque period, women’s fashion evolved to incorporate darker colours and more flamboyant patterns that embraced their natural curves.
Grazia Chiuri’s short and long dresses were inspired by the flowing lines and movement of the gowns of that era. Most looks in the collection were white, black, off-white, gold, and floral in colour, following the Baroque style.
An extra unique and spectacular detail of the Dior show every year is the location. From a huge hill with lavender flowers to the Greek Olympic stadium to the middle of the desert. Dior makes impossible dreams come true and transforms every location into a real theatre. This year the site was an exceptional link to the source of inspiration for the collection. The show took place in the middle of the Jardin des Tuileries, built-in 1553 by order of Catherine herself. The gardens were transformed into a fairy-tale, especially for the show, incorporating baroque caves that symbolise the inner landscape of women. Full of energy, dreams and illusions.
Photo credits: Filippo Fior
Pressiat
Pressiat’s collection this season is presented as a diptych.
A spring/summer 2023 show called “Suspicious” was shown at the Quartier Général, located at 71 Rue de la Fontaine au Roi. In line with the Besançon-born designer’s usual nineties references, the collection was reminiscent of old Hollywood with platinum blonde Marilyn Monroe hairstyles and glamorous long tight dresses with exaggerated shoulder pads. A dark palette, cut-outs, and slinky styles dominated Pressiat’s collection. The silhouettes are both light and aggressive, through second-skin volumes, nothing but thin metal chains, pencil skirts and broad shoulders.
Photo credits: Courtesy of Pressiat
Anrealage
Intricate patchwork was the star of the Anrealage show. Kunihiko Morinaga celebrated the brand’s 20th anniversary with a stunning collection inspired by the designer’s roots. The collection used handcrafted fabrics bundled together to create mosaic pieces.
This collection represents the Japanese designer’s passion for detail and his desire to push his art to its limits. Morinaga used 200 old garments to create some of the most sophisticated pieces of clothing. His collection includes ruffled sleeves, harlequin coats, skirts, and shirts made entirely of the same colour. Each garment involves assembling small triangles or squares of fabric from dead stocks or vintage collections, but the results are different. As a result, the trousers in beige or grey were reminiscent of marquetry, while the puzzle dress in faded denim squares appeared to be cut from a uniform, tapestry-like material. Morinaga’s show concluded with five all-black looks; subsequently, the designer made all the models walk again, however this time with their clothes reversed.
Photo credits: Filippo Fior
Koché
In her latest collection, designer Christelle Kocher teamed up with Google to merge technology and fashion. There was also an interaction between garments, as looks switched on LEDs woven into each garment, as boy and girl met—one in a sweatshirt, the other in a feathered mini. An enormous screen, which was paired with looks in this show, dissected the former stock market of Paris. An invisible hand appeared on screenwriting: “Do hoodies dream of beautiful sunsets?”
Photo credits: Daniele Oberrauch
YSL
Under the Eiffel Tower’s beam, Anthony Vaccarello showcased a range of floor-length dresses and masculine outerwear that captured Parisian glamour for Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2023.
The YSL show was grand and opulent, with orchestral music playing as models walked the marble steps. It was leather jackets everywhere, but hooded dresses and a coat with exaggerated shoulders ushered in a new kind of sexy glamour. The coats were floor-length, and the dresses were fitted and cut from the finest materials. With this season’s collection, it is clear that Vaccarello continued the elongated silhouette of previous collections. Several looks were characterised by hooded chiffon dresses, which became the star of the collection. A sense of effortless sophistication is shown by sheer tank dresses, cashmere pants, and pyjama-inspired satin looks. The runway was dominated by muted colours like black, white, grey, maroon and mauve, as well as hints of blue, brown, green and chartreuse.
Photo credits: Filippo Fior
Courrèges
Hourglasses are a constant reminder of passing time; tidal waves are a constant reminder of renewal. Nicholas Di Felice was inspired by the idea of elapsed time, looking forward and looking back. Courrèges’ spring/summer 2023 season taps into the rave memories of its creative director Di Felice. At Paris Fashion Week, he unveiled a collection that depicts a post-beach rave scene that mimics the feeling of a morning after a wild night. The outfits were relaxed and featured light and airy tones. Flowing dresses and soft fabrics were in abundance. The set designed by French artist Theo Mercier looked like a beach evolving into an hourglass. The lyrics of the soundtrack complemented the theme of this collection.
Photo credits: Courtesy of Courreges
Undercover
This season a common theme throughout Undercover’s collection was subverting gendered traditions as workwear cues inspired monochrome styles, which translated into slashed suits with flower details, bow ties at the rear and lace in the cuts of the garments, as well as trench coats adorned with flowers and beads of pearl. The show stopper, however, was a series of dresses presented in the form of orbital figures, each puffy and voluminous.
Photo credits: Isidore Montag
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten’s stunning collection was split into three segments. The first part of the show introduced all-black outfits. Void of colour, we consider each style’s texture, structure and silhouettes. These began with an oversized jacket in a technical, spongey mesh fabric that’s fastened with a glass-headed pin in order to create a furled, succulent gather. Afterwards, emerged ruffles and less structured pieces. As part of the second segment, rustling paillette pieces and outrageously embellished cotton jersey T-shirts and skirts introduced colour, mostly paler and washed at first. In the third part, the garments are injected with vivid floral patterns contrasting with the previously demure pieces.
Photo credit: Alessandro Lucioni
Rochas
As inspiration for Rochas’ collection, Designer Charles de Vilmorin turned to the spirit of a summer dawn. The collection features silhouettes that flow freely, cascading ruffles and layers of ruffles around the body, as well as light, experimental geometric shapes made from silk, organza, and cotton.
Photo credits: Daniele Oberrauch
Balmain
In this season’s collection, Balmain focuses heavily on sustainability with a collaboration with Evian, which Rousteing describes as part of the house’s 21st-century breakthrough via technology. Dresses are made using a single fabric woven from recycled Evian bottles, which is sustainable from the start and easy to recycle since it is a mono-material tissue. As part of the collection, Balmain presented full looks, including leather body suits inspired by Renaissance paintings, suits made of creased paper that welcomed a sustainable aesthetic, couture dresses woven from wicker, and other looks made of banana.
Photo credits: Daniele Oberrauch
Chloé
In her collection this season, Gabriela Hearst focused on classic cuts and beautifully tailored jackets. The collection started with a soft opening. We were introduced to knitted dresses featuring cut-outs from recycled cashmere and linen blazers, one of Hearst’s favourite materials due to its pesticide-free harvesting. The mood changed to an industrial one: dresses with foiled mesh or knitted to look like perforations, and outfits in head-to-toe certified European leather fit for fancy factory workers became the trend.
Photo credits: Isidore Montag
Uma Wang
The unique combination of ancient Asian styles with chic, cosmopolitan looks is one of Wang’s trademarks, and an impressive range of fabrics serves as the canvas for her creativity. This season is a little different for the designer. In her new collection, Wang harnesses the different elements of nature and draws inspiration from North Africa. The beautiful pieces are composed of a neutral palette evoking the emptiness of desert sand, while coffee-dyed materials add a sense of earthiness to some of the garments.
Photo credits: Alessandro Tinelli
Rick Owens
No less than perfection was expected for Rick Owens’ Spring/Summer 2023 runway show at Paris Fashion Week. With his gory cues and sexual motifs mixed with kinks and gothic glamour, Rick Owens is one of the most anticipated designers, season after season.
From bold tulle ballgowns in his signature palette of red to the chaos of pink pop ensembles, this season saw the take-over of sheer as the catwalk was filled with skin-bearing styles- some of which even featured dramatically pointed shoulders.
Rick Owens SS23 had a strong emphasis on leather; a shoulder-centric bomber jacket was paired with a white leather train and clear heel boots, while a snakeskin effect was used to elevate the look as the model walked with its crinkles cutting the leather.
Photo credits: Salvatore Dragone
Off-White
Virgil Abloh, the founder of Off-White, was honoured last year with a collection that travelled through some of his most memorable looks. Shortly after, Ibrahim Kamara, a longtime collaborator of Abloh, was named his successor. Today’s collection is the first designed by the new creative director, titled “Celebration”.
In a series of trompe l’oeil effects, the collection exposed parts of the models’ bodies through cutouts, purposely unfinished detailing, and sheer lace. The collection featured faded skeletons appearing on denim skirts, knitted polo shirts, sheer white sectioning and technical bodysuits. As the collection unfolded, the bones mapped on the body transformed into a cyborg, post-human silhouettes.
In a series of trompe l’oeil effects, the collection exposed parts of the models’ bodies through cutouts, purposely unfinished detailing, and sheer lace. The collection featured faded skeletons appearing on denim skirts, knitted polo shirts, sheer white sectioning and technical bodysuits. As the collection unfolded, the bones mapped on the body transformed into a cyborg, post-human silhouettes.
Photo credits: Daniele Oberrauch
Isabel Marant
As part of Paris Fashion Week, Isabel Marant showcased her Spring/Summer 2023 collection. She delved into the 90s and her roots to create this collection.
Marant emphasises her ability to reinterpret and remain timeless through this new release, reinforcing the codes that make her unique. In this collection, the designer revisits the low rise, the open necklines, and the camouflage pattern. With a mix of materials, this throwback to the past is complemented by leather skirts, flowing silk dresses, intricate shiny embroidery in jackets, and crochet for swimsuits and sleeveless shirts that add a touch of fragility to a show that is filled with rudeness and power. But the display also shows a hint of lightness in a primarily dark colour palette: blacks joined hands with earthy tones, complemented by floral prints in purple, orange, and multicolour.
Photo credits: Filippo Fior
Words by Chanelle Jassim
Graphic by Jing Toh
