Emerging from the lifeless shackles of the pandemic, timeless designers from Prada to D&G have agreed to leave the past behind and look to the ebullient future with their menswear FW22 collections this Milan Fashion Week. Shell suits, ski- wear, and excessive fur brought the life and excitement that we’ve all been craving back to the runway, right on time for our post-pandemic adventures.
Prada
Prada left casual wear in 2021 after owning Milan Fashion Week with a workwear meets sci-fi assemblage. Traditional trousers and trench coats were reinvisioned in shades of lime green and sky blue, alongside shell suits reminiscent of early 2000s space odyssey movies.
In a statement about the show, designer Miuccia Prada said her FW22 men’s collection aims to ‘make people feel important.’ And the Italian born designer didn’t disappoint. It would be impossible not to feel an air of authority in the shoulder-emphasising mahogany and black leather trench coats which marched Prada’s runway this week.
The fun, yet professional collection is a vision of post-pandemic style. Overdressing became a thing of the past after we wore nothing but joggers and jeans for two years. In turn, Prada’s FW22 men’s collection enables the wearer to look sophisticated yet striking everyday in overcoats and knitwear in an array of playful colours and styles.
Dolce and Gabbana
Among the zestful lilac lighting of the D&G runway emerged Machine Gun Kelly, who dropped his usual loud, punk attire for a white suit dripping in golden studs to open D&Gs FW22 Milano show. With his new fiance Megan Fox watching from the crowd, the fashion house couldn’t have found a star more fitting than Kelly to foretell the flamboyant menswear collection which was to follow.
Inspired by this generation’s individuality and flair, Dolce and Gabbana left their comfort zone behind with this collection, as they strived to represent the revolutionary style of Gen-Z. The Italian duo’s distinctive collection left it impossible to predict what would emerge from the runway wings next. With all-pink, ultra femme suits followed by monochromatic ski-style puffers styled with visers, to models wearing nothing but boxers and fur coats. It’s safe to say this show was a true reflection of the brand’s new ‘anything goes’ spirit.
Druv Kapoor
Kapoor’s new menswear collection branded ‘soul tech’ has been described by the designer as a representation of our true consciousness, destined to live eternally through technology. The futuristic collection, featuring overcoats covered in trippy prints and embroidered with quotes such as, ‘Linear Time is an Illusion’, is relevant in today’s digital age, in which our lives, jobs, and identities are becoming aligned to technology like never before.
After establishing his brand in 2013, Indian fashion designer Kapoor remarked that he wanted to move away from the notion that a male collection cannot incorporate femininity, with a goal to ‘break the archaic rules of gender’. Kapoor kept to his word during Milan this week, as his menswear presentation burst with fuchsia hats, floral bomber jackets, and pink embroidery. The brand incorporated masculine and feminine clothing features which would look amazing on anyone regardless of gender identity.
Dsquared2
The strings of LED lights which danced along the runway delivered a mystical mood to Dsquared2’s FW22 Milan menswear show. The Italian/Canadian brand conjured a collection which saw outdoor wear reinvisioned to become simultaneously practical and chic.
Dean and Dan Caten have evolved since their brand began with basic menswear like shirts and trousers. The brand is now characterised by its bold and eclectic styling. The twin brothers layered puffer gilets, suede fur-lined jackets, and turtlenecks in daring shades like orange and green this Milan fashion week- the perfect ensemble for stylish post- pandemic exploring.
The brothers are not afraid to combine clashing colours and prints into one look, which their FW22 collection demonstrates. From sequins with fur to tartan with stripes, no pairing is off- limits when it comes to Dsquared2.
Etro
The Italian fashion house, renowned for paisley prints and corduroy trousers, brought a relaxed and comfortable approach to high fashion in this week’s FW22 menswear show.
Creative director of Etro’s male collection, Kean Etro, sent roll-neck woolly jumpers with baggy vinyl pants, loose fleece co- ords evocative of pyjamas, and ankle- length paisley print coats which could pass as dressing gowns down the runway this week. Even the red and green paisley carpet stormed by Etro’s male models complemented the bold and wacky 1980s aesthetic which the brand proudly promotes.
Etro continued the playful, futuristic spirit of the season; flaunting cartoon-like exaggerated button sizes, ultra-shiny leather, and bold colour combinations like green and purple.
Fendi
A solid black runway illuminated by nothing but soft white lighting was the perfect precursor for Silvia Fendi’s minimal FW22 menswear collection. Fendi’s Milan show kissed goodbye to clashing patterns and welcomed the structured layering of rain coats, knee- length shorts, and waistcoats in a single shade or print. Neutral tones of beige, taupe, and grey dominated the collection, perfectly imitating the hues of the autumn months which the collection is prepared for.
The monochromatic moments were a highlight of Fendi’s menswear. Against the all-taupe and all- grey looks, stood out an all-burgundy ensemble which hinted at the season’s favour of leather. Leather belts, leather shorts, and leather bucket hats all featured in the passionate red hue and continued the brands legacy of producing ultimate leather creations.
Fendi also debuted re-imagined 1920s-style male knitwear. As male models on Fendi’s FW22 Milan catwalk sported knitted jumpers which revealed the chest through a cut-out design favoured heavily by designers this season, paired with matching knitted trousers in cream and grey.
Blue Marble
1980 met 2080 in Bluemarble’s FW22 men’s collection. While Anthony Alvarez’s Parisian brand is still in its infancy after being established in 2019, the designer was not afraid of making a bold mark on Milan Fashion Week. His Milan runway saw sequinned jeans, 80s-style Aztec prints, and scarfs in a multitude of vivid colours, perfect for staying warm but stylish in the autumn/winter months.
When speaking about his brand, Alvarez admitted he wants his clothing to represent and celebrate people’s differences, and his FW22 delivered on this promise. Whether you like to keep it classic with a beige trench, or live to be extra in a purple leopard print fleece, this collection has something for everyone.
Words By Olivia Booth
