It can’t be denied that in the world of fashion and beauty, there’s nothing more fascinating than haute couture. Whilst personal ownership of the clothing itself is exclusively reserved for those in the top 1%, twice a year, the most famous celebrities, designers, and models flock to Paris for Couture Week. Whilst timeless labels who have become synonymous with the term ‘couture’ (such as Dior and Chanel) flaunt their latest collections, established houses like Balenciaga and Schiaparelli provide onlookers with an essence of innovation that is guaranteed to captivate the attention of fashion lovers far and wide. What is often forgotten though, despite its importance, are the beauty looks that go hand in hand with each creation.
From hair and makeup, to skincare, accessories, and nail extensions, when it comes to the notions, trimmings and hand-made embellishments that make up the intricacies of haute couture, attention to detail is irrefutably, vital. When these little elements of beauty are taken advantage of, it’s clear that there’s no better way to elevate when it comes to sophistication. After all, isn’t that what haute couture is defined by?
This month, a series of beauty trends inevitably made an appearance on the runway. Fendi, Dior and Elie Saab glazed their models’ skin in gloss and glitter, an ethereal take on the glassy skin trend that proves perfect for the summertime. Swiftly followed by the prominence of the classic red lip at Schiaparelli, as well as slick space-buns at Iris Van Herpen and pigmented eyeshadow at Viktor & Rolf, this year’s beauty moments most certainly didn’t disappoint.
Below, you’ll find all the best beauty moments that are worthy of your attention – whether that be on the catwalk, or the front row.
Jean Paul Gaultier
As the latest guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier, Olivier Rousteing, Creative Director of Balmain, honoured the brand’s roots through a series of nostalgic references. When it came to accessories, there were dramatic beaded necklaces, chains, cone-bras, and platforms, making the perfect partner for glass garments and tin-can inspired skirts.
Models’ wrists were adorned in chunky silver bangles and large pearls, whilst fingertips were topped with extensions reminiscent of silver graters that drew industrial parallels with the classic acrylic manicure. Paired with ears that were laced with piercings, whether they be hanging bucket earrings or industrial bars, Jean Paul Gaultier’s show didn’t shy away from extravagance and exceptional attention to detail.
Luckily, the show got even more exciting when the attention was shifted from the runway to the side-lines. Attendees such as Kim Kardashian stirred a media frenzy when arriving on the front row, accompanied by daughter North West, in a pinstriped beret, black shades, metallic cuff bracelets and a silver nose ring that connected to the ears before draping across the chest like a necklace. Wearing large chokers and a subtle nude lip, the duo’s all black outfits were brought to life by their accessories.
Vetements
Whilst last season, faces were obscured with masks, this season, in Gvasalia’s first physical show for Vetements, there were an array of diverse characters that graced the runway. Whilst of every age, gender, ethnicity and background, their hair most certainly took centre stage, drawing our attention (albeit momentarily) away from fashion and onto the importance of beauty when making a statement.
Hairstylists Pablo Kuemin and Jody Taylor met with each of the models individually in the lead up to the show to discuss what their hair look would be, making clever references to famous movie stars, distinct street styles and the British punk scene. From neon buzz cuts to liberty spikes, the show told stories of Gvasalia’s earliest experiences with fashion, alluding to distinct childhood memories that, by extension, couldn’t help but make you burst with nostalgia.
Iris Van Herpen
Iris Van Herpen’s 15th-anniversary collection at this year’s Paris Haute Couture Week celebrated beauty in all its ethereal glory, centring around the metaverse and the ultimate impact that virtual fashion will have on the way we dress. As a designer whose niche is characterised by the analysis of modern technologies and how they will alter our approach to our attire, there’s no one quite like Iris Van Herpen to carve out a collection where each beauty look is just as transformative and hyperreal as the clothes themselves.
Created by nail artist Tomoya Nakagawa, the multidimensional collection was complimented by 3D, translucent nails that twisted and turned upon each fingertip, and when it came to makeup, MUA Chiao Li Hsu’s work was just as exciting. The models’ eyes were surrounded with eyeshadow that was reminiscent of gold and silver leaves, whilst bleached eyebrows, the trend that has undoubtedly infiltrated the beauty industry as of late, stood in stark contrast to a natural, dewy base.
Space buns have been a favourite for years, but stylists Olivier Schawalder and Björn Axén took them to the next level at Iris Van Herpen’s show. With slick, tail-like braids that crept along the scalp and over the models’ faces, each hairstyle was sure to impress, channelling that of a mythological creature that had been elegantly swept across the ocean floor.
Schiaparelli
At Schiaparelli’s show, British makeup artist Pat Mcgrath orchestrated beauty looks that struck the perfect balance between drama and sophistication, with contoured cheekbones, red-lips, and winged smoky eyes heightening the effect of Roseberry’s timeless designs. In terms of hair, stylist Guido Palau similarly yet subtly revealed his artistry through simplistic up-dos, often masked by large hats to allow the geometric nature of Roseberry’s collection to bask under the limelight.
Attendees such as Rina Sawayama wore a black mini dress featuring a gilded brass jewellery harness in the shape of a mouth, whilst Hunter Schafer wore a black mini dress with a corset effect bustier and horn neckline. Rina’s eyes were coated in glitter whilst Hunter’s golden eyeshadow matched her golden surrealist earrings perfectly.
Viktor & Rolf
Viktor and Rolf’s show had a distinct 80’s feel that could be seen consistently, whether that be through the clothes, or the makeup. With exaggerated blazers and graphic stripes to captivate your attention, a multicoloured palette of pink, blue, red and even aubergine was gently painted across the models’ eyes, lips, and cheeks to take our admiration that one step further.
Lashes were either coated in a fluorescent orange or navy, suggesting that coloured mascara is the next trend set to re-emerge. For those who aren’t so into eye makeup, mirrored aviators appeared an ideal alternative.
Whilst ahead of the curve in terms of makeup, Viktor and Rolf kept it simple when it came to hair. Sleek and glossy, the models’ hair was often brushed back into a coif so that the eye makeup could do the talking.
Words by Gracie Eastwood
Header image: @tomonyan55
