Menswear took center stage this last week in Milan, with the most iconic Italian fashion brands presenting their 2023 Spring/Summer collections. Exploring new ways of expressing masculinity through a return to leisure with some notes of nostalgia. Prestigious returnees, newcomer brands, and other festivities combine all the elements needed to guarantee an eventful week. As Milan Fashion Week draws to a close, Voir has your final rundown of unforgettable runways.
Versace
Versace has also been revisiting their archives with a Baroque Pop spirit. Latex, ceramic urns, colored-python prints, and exaggerated silhouettes including silken shirts combine sexiness, simplicity, and depth.
Donatella Versace returned to menswear with a fun and inventive collection, full of color, casting images of classical statuary. Reinventing the brand’s iconic Medusa in animated versions that seem to come to life as repeating patterns on silks. In tune with the younger generation’s concern with the planet, Versace substituted exotic skins with python prints featuring neon accents, appearing as trenches or trousers, grounded by oversized pinstriped accent pieces. Leather-looks styled out of eco-sustainable latex were well ventilated with a repeating diamond pattern.
Versace Photo Credit: Filippo Fior
Dolce and Gabbana
“Heritage meets the present” for D&G Spring Summer Collection 2023. The show was a revival of timeless looks from the Italian house with a “re-edited” collection. “A past universe mixed with contemporary items to generate a new vision of the Dolce and Gabbana’s DNA” declared the designers. The collection displayed denim returns in all forms, combined with vintage printed T-shirts and jackets modernized with handmade embroideries. It also included classic pieces from the 90’s/2000’s like the iconic ‘canotta’ from ’91 and the “Sicilians are sensational” T-shirt from ’92. The brand revived these classic pieces with new shapes, treatments, and accessories to reinterpret the eternal fascination of Sicilian sensuality.
Dolce & Gabbana Photo Credit: Isidore Montag
Etro
The Etro collection carried the carefree waft of summer. Soft shirts, flannels, ranging from orange to blue tones with a delicate and sensual feeling, and fluidity through floral garments. The theme was the wild power of poetry beautifully translated through the collection. “The male body is perceived behind nets and perforations in the transparencies of impalpable materials. Volumes are soft and accompany the movement.” Declared the brand.
Etro Photo Credit: Isidore Montag
Moschino
Jeremy Scott scored again with this new collection, mixing 80s fashion with the Buffalo movement and graphic designs. Bi-color suits. The collection was also inspired by Latino artist Tony Viramontes. His work was characterized by kinetic lines, electric energy, and calligraphic shapes, well-synchronized with 1980’s art. The artist also helped create New Age style.
Moschino Photo Credit: Isidore Montag
RAF Simmons and Miuccia Prada
The designers have combined the house’s sophisticated aesthetic with Simons’ youthful aura. Everyday essentials like suits, overcoats, sweaters, shirts, denim, and leather took over the line while celebrating Prada’s famous classic tailoring. Despite the simplicity of these pieces, the silhouettes have been reimagined through geometric shapes, Leather, Adding a note of vibrant sensuality with high-waisted shorts mixed with subtle vichy patterns. A combination of sophistication and oddness.
Raf Simmons and Muiccia Prada Photo Credit: Filippo Fior
Armani
Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2023 fashion show was defined by lightness in attitude and spirit. The collection included shirts combined with soft trousers cut from the same fabric giving a uniform hint. The shapes barely touched the body allowing it to breathe vital energy, and embodying this summer vibe. The sheer joy of living and dressing for the season: choosing clothes and accessories to throw on without too much thought.
Armani Photo Credit: Isidore Montag
Fendi
Silvia Venturini Fendi created earthy, grounded looks for a planet-conscious generation in shades that ranged from soothing chambray to hearty ochres. With Denim outfits, bucket hats, iconic Fendi logo, fringe on statement handbags, and moccasins for an easy day look. The collection also included knitwear in matching tones, shorts in linen with soft-zipped jackets, and sturdy-soled slip-on loafers for the beach. On the more dressy end, roomy Bermuda shorts in cream paired with a camel jacket.
Fendi Photo credit: Filippo Fior
Words by Melodie Batala-Samba
Graphics By Veronica Wong Diffa
