The moment has finally come. And yes, we’re talking about Pharrell Williams’ debut as Louis Vuitton’s new creative director. Since being announced as Virgil Abloh’s successor in February, the fashion world has been shaking in anticipation to see if the polymath will fill such big shoes. And that he did. From a front row filled with his celebrity friends to music composed by himself, the show was like taking a peak inside the rapper’s mind–and wardrobe. Shown in Paris yesterday and live-streamed globally, the clothes gave the $20 billion fashion brand a sporty, nerdy, and quirky makeover.
But if there’s one key takeaway from the Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2024 Show, it’s that it’s not just about fashion– it’s an immersive experience that’s a little bit Louis Vuitton, a little bit celebrity-inspired, and a whole lot Pharrell.
The Phlace
The show took place on Paris’ oldest bridge le Pont Neuf while overlooking the river Seine in a nod to the brand’s Parisian roots. Guests arrived by boat to see the historical location covered in Louis Vuitton’s signature Damier check, drinking champagne and enjoying chicken nuggets prepared by celebrity chef Jean Imbert. What followed was a three-hour celebratory spectacle filled with fashion, music, and culture that confirmed Vuitton’s promise to position itself as a ‘cultural brand’.
The Phriends
A live orchestra and gospel choir accompanied the 71 looks that strutted down the runway, building excitement that exploded as Jay-Z gave a surprise concert near the end. The rapper wasn’t the only A-lister in attendance; amongst the 1,750 guest list were also Naomi Campbell, Jaden and Willow Smith, Kim Kardashian, and Paris mayor Anne Hidalgo. Most notably however, were Pharrell’s closest friends lining the front row. From Beyoncé and Zendaya’s reunion to A$AP Rocky and Rihanna’s matching denim fits, the show seemed more like that party hosted by the cool, popular kids we all desperately wanted to get invited to.
The Phinspiration
But unlike those high school parties, Pharrell wants everyone to feel included with the ‘Lovers’ collection. Following his announcement to take the reigns on Valentine’s Day, the 50-year-old kept the capsule theme going by revolving the whole show around love and community. ‘I make clothes for humans’, he said to Vogue ahead of the show, ‘It’s very inspired by the love and support of the people here that I’ve just been blessed to be able to experience’. He even included his confidants inside the collection, with Rihanna being the face of the campaign and the clothes referencing Tyler The Creator’s signature preppy look.
The Phieces
And now on to the actual clothes. The runway opened with a neutral, boxy suit preliminary for the increasingly quirky and detailed looks that followed. Center stage was the LV Damier checkerboard, reinterpreted everywhere from leather biker jackets to fur coats. Pharrell also focused heavily on bags and introduced the ‘Damouflage pattern’, a digitized camo print that inspires thoughts of Minecraft.
Overall, the collection was an organized haphazard mix of vastly different aesthetics. Slick tailored pieces contrasted baggier clothes, and 70s flared trousers debuted alongside pearl-embedded tracksuits. Truly no style was left behind: there were leather football shirts, watch chain jewelry, camouflage parkas, and even a golf cart filled to the brim with LV trunks. The Vuitton logo was everywhere, with additional “LV Lovers” graphics plastered on both female and male models. There’s no doubt that a collage of so many opposing styles shouldn’t fit together; yet somehow Williams made it work.
The Phuture
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At the end of the show, Pharrell took a standing ovation in a ‘Damouflage’ patterned jacket and trousers, sweetly bringing out the Louis Vuitton design team to honor the community behind his debut (very on theme if you ask us). After such a grandiose presentation, the fashion industry is already wondering what the entertainment mogul is bringing to the table next. If his opening show is any hint, we can expect more statement bags, ‘Damouflage’ everywhere, break-the-internet moments, and a lot of celebrity power. The ‘phuture’ is Pharrell, and we’re all here for it.
Words by Alexia De Las Heras
Header Image: @Louis Vuitton Instagram
