AVAVAV’s controversial designs and runway shows have been a firm Gen-Z favourite since current Creative Director, Beate Karlsson, took over the brand in 2020. From her chicken-feet boots to commentary on the fashion industry via her runway shows, Karlsson has taken AVAVAV to celebrity status – being seen on the likes of Doja Cat, Rihanna, and Tessa Thompson.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Ca2dZKOr7F5/?hl=en&img_index=1
Karlsson took AVAVAV to notoriety with her transformative footwear, her most famous design being the thigh-high, rubbery, green boots with long toes that went viral across Tik Tok and Instagram. Influencers such as Mia Maples were trying them out, baffled at their wacky toe design which elongated the toes and created a monster/chicken foot at the bottom. Doja Cat then also appeared at the 2021 MTV Awards sporting multi-coloured, thigh-high boots that resembled chicken’s feet at the bottom, which drew attention to the brand with their outlandish design and narrative surrounding human dysmorphia, with the addition of extra-terrestrial or animalistic elements.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Ca2dZKOr7F5/?hl=en&img_index=1
The brand’s debut at Milan Fashion Week for their S/S 2023 collection was heavily discussed, with a dramatised runway that saw their models intentionally falling over whilst wearing clothing adorned with dollar signs, the slogan ‘filthy rich,’ and multiple Rolex watches that covered the models’ arms completely.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj6BEWDP2Fo/?hl=en
Karlsson made it clear that this was a commentary on the superficiality of the luxury fashion market and the false belief that wearing luxury brands means a person is superior. AVAVAV’s bold critique made for a memorable debut, garnering attention and much speculation surrounding their next runway show.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Ci21uU5IIWf/?hl=en
For AVAVAV’s F/W 2023 show, Beate Karlsson continued her commentary on the state of the fashion industry, sticking with the critique of the luxury fashion market and creating a runway show titled “Fake it Till You Break It.” This saw the models’ clothes falling away from their bodies as they made their way down the catwalk, with poor stitching and intentional rips on display as a commentary on the decreasing quality of clothing in the luxury market due to uncurbed consumption and demand for luxury goods. To end the show, Beate herself entered to give thanks to the audience when the walls began to collapse around her – marking an extravagant and poignant end to the show.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Ci26M-aoZwj/?hl=en
More recently, AVAVAV’s debuting of their S/S 2024 collection at MFW left the internet rocked, with Karlsson’s collection titled “No Time to Design” which appeared hasty and unfinished, with models in incomplete outfits, or dressing themselves in a rushed manner as they hastened down the runway. Again, Beate continues her discussion surrounding the lack of quality and creativity in the luxury market, parodying luxury brands humorously by implying their designs are rushed and lack creativity in order to keep up with increased demand and consumption.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CxikTmAsz28/?hl=en
Their most recent work is a collaboration between AVAVAV and East Pak – “Built to Resist,” combining durability with design as AVAVAV reimagines the traditional bag work of East Pak through multiplication of their designs and deconstruction of their more conventional bag styles. This collab appears a match made in heaven, as both brands are clear with their intentions towards the sustainability of their garments.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C7rW-xZtalR/?hl=en
AVAVAV makes a strong commitment to upcycling, using scrap materials sourced from renowned brands such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Jacquemus and continuously using sustainable methods of designing and packaging. East Pak has also made a mission statement surrounding sustainability, aiming to reduce consumption by increasing the warranty on their products to 30 years and attempting to use recycled fabrics where possible.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C7zIY5NtfhG/?hl=en&img_index=3
Their collaboration launch saw their products packaged in rubbish bags and egg cartons, with a theme of ‘trash’ throughout the launch event and runway show as a commentary on the increasing disposability of luxury fashion and the ever-growing number of clothes sent to landfill each year.
Written By Bethan Gwynne
