Jason Wu
Beginning with Mr Wu’s General Store, the models swept through aisles of flowers, fresh groceries and Coca-Cola stands. Wu’s 2021 Fall collection places emphasis on coats and layering. In an interview after the show, Wu expressed his aspiration for the collection is to produce clothing people could easily see themselves wearing, he wanted to translate ‘fuzzy’ and ‘cozy’ feelings. The outfits limit skin exposure; below the knee length style coats and skirts are a common feature throughout the show, often overlapping with a pair of statement tall boots. High necklines are also incorporated, plenty of printed roll necks used as a base layer, enforcing the vision of coziness. The colour scheme of the collection is warming, the prints emulate natural colour of Autumn. Subtle from afar, these prints include abstract Coca-Cola bottles, resembling a nostalgic Andy Warhol Pop Art feel. Collaborating with Ariana Boussardreifel, the addition of ‘Sculptural Jewellery’ to the Fall collection; long chain chunky silver pendants and cohesive statement earrings elevated Wu’s outfits to a sophisticated and elegant level.
Prabal Gurung
Prabal Gurung’s show comprises of commentary about New York and how it makes people feel, it triggers energy and happiness. The audience can’t help but connote these emotions with the clothing displayed. The colour scheme of the collection is what stands out the most, the exclusively monochrome outfits, yet an anomaly of vibrant pink is continuous throughout. The opening phrase that New York feels like walking in a movie, is felt within the collection, for example, the elegant long gloves, the drama of the puff sleeve dresses and the tiers of polka dot gowns. This romanticised outlook of New York is carried through the glitz and glamour of the dangled silver tassel earrings and the suave, sophisticated blazers.
Victoria Beckham
Victoria Beckham’s AW 2021 collection share similarities with Jason Wu, rather than mini skirts to showcase a statement knee high boot, the dress length of AW 2021 seem to fall long enough to drape over the calve. Another trend Beckham and Wu both exhibit is this emphasis on layering, not just materials but pairing various patterns together. Both shows include high necklines often used as a core basing. Beckham describes her collection as breaking the rules, it is merging ‘formal and casual’ and ‘bridging the seasons.’ She expresses the importance of managing the balance of dressing up, yet remaining comfortable.
Markarian
Markarian’s 2021 Fall collection is glowing, the golden accents featured throughout the pieces assert richness. The moiré silk finish adds depths and texture, contributing to its luxurious quality appearance. The collection includes several knitwear pieces, establishing the elegance of comfort, transitioning this category into a more flattering realm.
Imitation of Christ
Avoiding the typical notions of love hearts and roses on Valentine’s Day, The Imitation of Christ show artistically relates to a deeper message of valuing life. Although short, the show is intense and powerful, exposing this romanticised organ into a graphic, blood-pumping machine, gradually dominated by uncontrollable wild flowers. The use of a heart monitor sound track is eerie and discomforting, the beats are used as a tool to structure timings and sequences of the shows different looks. Changing on each beat, the execution of the collection is short and punchy, offering small tasters of the collection. Because of this fast paced show, the most striking features dominating the collection include the use of tassels. Tassels are incorporated in multiple ways, in both women and menswear. Layering and fringing is displayed in accessorising the clothes. Pant chains are also included when embellishing an outfit, contrasting to the vertical fringing, chains are horizontally dangled. As the heart pumps, flowers sprout, the overgrowing flowers escalate the beats, producing chaos and intensity leading to an explosion. This exceptional visual metaphor is explained in the end statement. The show radiates rawness, it is the embodiment of the difficult year the world has faced, empathising deeply to all viewers, the show is relatable and accessible.
Words by Theodora Wood, Graphic by Millie Pollok
