As the resale market continues to grow at a rapid rate, alongside the world’s current yearning for vintage and pre-loved clothing, we sat down to chat with Maya Ali, Head of Authentication at Cudoni, https://www.cudoni.com to get the inside scoop on what it’s really like to work at one of the biggest luxury resale platforms in the world. Maya shares her expert tips and tricks for when it comes to shopping second-hand, as well as her predictions for the future, and even reveals the best vintage piece she’s discovered while at work. If you’re thinking of selling your iconic pre-loved handbag or you’re on the lookout for your next vintage find, then keep on reading to see what she had to say!
Could you first tell us a bit about Cudoni? And how did you start working for the resale site?
Cudoni is a luxury marketplace where people can buy and sell preloved luxury goods. We provide a full-service approach, collecting your luxury goods from your home and managing everything from product photography to buyer inquiries. I knew I wanted to be a part of a fast growing business where I can share my skills and knowledge in other avenues. As well as authentication I also have input in the stylisation of products, our listing process and so much more.
What does your role in authenticity involve day-to-day?
No day is the same which is one of the main reasons I fell in love with authentication. We take an array of products meaning I could have a vintage Thierry Mugler runway piece to authenticate, or a Chanel 19 bag straight from the store. It’s always exciting to see what the day entails.
On a usual day as soon as an item is placed in front of me, the first thing would be to get a general feel of the bag, leather, stitching, quality of the hardware and the overall quality. I then check the serial code and brand stamps to ensure that the font is correct and that the date of production is aligned with the serial code, by this point I have my verdict on the item’s authenticity.
Were you always interested in the resale market and vintage goods?
I always knew I would do something in fashion so I originally started in sales for pre-loved luxury. As the industry progressed I became immersed in the world of authentication. Resale overall is such an exciting industry and I look forward to being part of it while it grows.
It’s almost Christmas time, so do you have any advice for buying luxury gifts for loved ones?
I would suggest going for an accessory as it’s one size fits all, a cute card holder, tie or a scarf. Clothing can get quite tricky as sizing varies from brand to brand, and when gifting, you’d want to make sure it’s something they’ll use again and again. I’d also stick to classic brands like Gucci and Louis Vuitton.
Do you have any top tips for ensuring authenticity when we’re buying designer accessories during the Christmas period?
My best advice would be to always purchase from a reputable reseller, like Cudoni. Items that have been authenticated by in-house experts are checked before they are shipped to the buyers to make sure the condition description is accurate. If they ever have any doubts about an item, they would never accept it for sale. It’s the safest way to shop for pre-loved luxury goods.
What are some red flags to definitely avoid when shopping for pre-loved items?
The biggest red flag consumer should look out for is the image and whether it’s an image from the official brand page. Many of the replica sites pick up the images so that the buyers are convinced that they’re getting the real deal – that is never the case. Another would be if the price is too good to be true.
A general rule of thumb is that if it sells for less than 25% of the current market value of a similar model, it is likely to be a fake.
Do you have any favourite fashion brands or certain eras we should keep an eye out for when buying pre-loved items?
My personal favourites are Chanel, Hermes and Dior. They’re timeless and classic, I know I can pair my Mini Lady Dior with a dress for dinner or wear it crossbody with a hoodie. Let’s not forget the great investment you’re making as classics hold their value as they’re kept in current production lines and are super versatile. Contrary to popular belief, it’s not always the limited editions that are worth more than the classics. They may sell for a premium on the resale market as soon as they are released due to the hype and scarcity but as soon as something new drops, the market steers towards the latest.
We’re sure many people have accidentally bought fakes before, has there been a fake designer accessory that made you second-guess if it was actually authentic?
Counterfeit producers never get it 100% right, they’ll always be off by one thing at which point we would reject the item. Some put a lot of work into how the item looks and completely ignore the interior of the bag and make it to the poorest standards. In other instances, they have attempted to perfect the date code but that specific model was not released until four years later. But no matter how much work goes into counterfeit products, they’ll never be able to match the quality standards of the luxury houses given their decades, and in some cases, centuries, of expertise and craftsmanship.
How does the authenticity process differ between items? Is it a different inspection for clothes compared to handbags or jewellery?
Each product category is entirely different, for example, silver jewellery could look silver but we assess and specify whether it’s AU750 or 925. For bags, certain brands have their own leathers like Hermes has Epsom and Courchevel, both similar in appearance but two different types of leather.
The entire process is super comprehensive, and for authentication, we must scrutinise all the tiny details for each and every product.
The resale market is continually growing bigger and bigger, do you think it will eventually become the dominant method of buying clothing and accessories?
Absolutely! People are more conscious of their purchasing habits and when buying preloved luxury, you are in fact purchasing high-quality products for a possible fraction of the price.
There’s a reason we still see Hermes Kelly bags from the 1960’s circulating the resale market. Prime example, say a bag has an RRP of £1300 and goes into an outlet for £850, but then you see it on the resale market for £450.
You’ve essentially saved yourself a lot of money! So why not save money and the planet at the same time?
Is there a particular reason why you think people often prefer to buy pre-loved items?
Based on my experience when it comes to preloved luxury items, it’s narrowed down to two things. One is that the item is discontinued therefore it can only be found on the resale market since the brand no longer produces it. Secondly, people want to own luxury items but not with the hefty price tag. The pre-loved market caters to all sorts of buyers, which makes this such an exciting industry to work in. From fashion curators, contemporary stylists, to your average fashion student who needs that Issey Miyake Bao Bao bag to fit all her art supplies in!
Do you have an all-time favourite item that was sold through Cudoni?
I don’t think I can forget this item – I remember placing it in front of me and gathering the whole team! It was a Chanel pink cropped jacket from Spring 1995, it was runway look 5 modelled by Meghan Douglas. This jacket was from an era which was the year of the supermodels such as Claudia Schiffer and Naomi Campbell so to have authenticated this item was really exciting.
Is there a particular vintage piece in your own wardrobe that you would never part with?
I think once you work in resale, it’s hard to part ways with any pieces you’ve purchased because you know the likelihood of them coming back around is close to none. But my all-time favourite would be my vintage Gianni Versace Medusa sunglasses, I plan to rock them for the next 50 years to come.
Words By Ella Citron-Thompkins
Photo Credit: Cudoni Instagram
Shop the products at https://www.cudoni.com
