The fashion continues to impress us at BFW and we are bringing our favourite designer collections straight to you. Get to grips with these designers now because they are set for stardom.
Namilia
The hype for Namilia was crazy. We were waiting for spectacular design executions, and honey, they killed it. Aligning with our beliefs of feminism and female empowerment, we knew the show was going to seize the moment and embrace the best of female fashion. Namilia is a hot name right now and we are an established diehard fan, along with one of our favourite girls, Rosalia.
The atmosphere was electric, and the fashion was eccentric. Channelling the rave culture of Berlin, Namilia went full-out for their debut. A strong green light emerged before the show began, symbolizing this show was going to be something spectacular. Lights flashed, the rave music began and the tension built to a climatic point. Bursting through the pent-up anticipation, models appeared dramatically striding down the runway. Everything was insane. Floor length extensions and wet looks dominated the hairstyles, while bleached brows, prosthetics and graphic liners ruled the make-up looks. A size-inclusive show which featured none other than fashion legend, Tayce, to close the show, what a performance.
Images Courtesy of Berlin Fashion Council
Namilia outdid themselves and we were obsessed with the looks. In true Namilia fashion, studs, chains and unnatural exaggerated silhouettes appeared down the runway. Their signature style of full-blown leather outfits made up of trench coats and biker jackets showed the brand’s evolved style from last season. The bulk of the futuristic and experimental collection was white and black fits, but they are bringing back the neons as green and orange flares were popular in their set. The presence of continuing trends- sheer, faux fur and biker looks- have proved they will enter our AW23, and we spotted flares and belts as upcomers. We couldn’t get enough of the slouchy boots and the collection as a whole got us hyped for the Berlin club scene.
Litkovska
Lilia Litkovska, a renowned Ukrainian fashion designer showed her inspired collection for women’s AW23 fashion. Evidently, fashion is in her DNA as she comes from a long-line of tailors. Her furiousness to preserve classic and traditional Ukrainian craftsmanship shines through her strong designs.
An incredibly touching show was served by Litkovska. Her collection, ‘Vesniankas’, beautifully took inspiration from her upbringing within Ukraine and the country’s heritage. The ensemble of looks contained deep meaning which gave the whole show a sentimental atmosphere. ‘Vesniankas’ are songs which celebrate the emergence of Spring and have been performed in Ukraine for thousands of years. Litkovska was inspired by the symbolism Spring holds for new beginnings. Her hopeful spirit holds optimism for the people of Ukraine and this collection is a tribute to a hopeful new beginning for the nation.
Images Courtesy of Berlin Fashion Council
Walking to the sound of traditional ‘Vesniankas’, the show was impactful, to say the least. Litkovska designs a radically realistic wardrobe for the modern woman, where traits of freedom and fragility can co-exist. The collection shown fitted her brief to a tee, and stood out as charismatically charming. Masculine tailored styles contrasted with soft feminine aesthetics. Light fringe dresses in bohemian fabrics brought a soft elegance to the collection and elaborately embroidered designs were striking. The whole collection conveyed a faint sensual desire and embodied the mix of youthful energy and sophistication.
Fassbender
‘Beauty From Within’ inspires the Hamburg designer Christina Fassbender. She likes to re-imagine classic and staple pieces which are versatile and can serve every woman. The beauty of her work speaks for itself as cuts are clean and sophisticated. Nature commonly inspires the designer as she believes the Fassbender Woman appreciates the natural beauty in her surrounding landscape.
A gorgeous and delicate scene was set for viewing her latest work for AW23, which aligned with the themes and aesthetics of her designs. Focusing on comfort in her designs, it was fitting that we sat at a lovely set table, able to review the collection in a relaxed and effortless manner. A theatrical live art demonstration kicked off the show which showed a dress being painted live with whimsical patterns. The beautiful runway display finished up with the model in the painted dress closing. Post-walk, a vegetarian meal was served before us allowing us to soak up the atmosphere and marvel at the collection.
Images Courtesy of Berlin Fashion Council
The designs within ‘Identity’ broke free from Fassbender’s mind as she contemplated her own identity and sense of self. In a time of self-reflection and soul-searching, she was unaware that the moments of clarity would be the very thing to inspire her next collection. 30 looks capture the evolution of her identity, as the collection shows a youthful traditional sense of her spirit transform into more mature styles. Grungy checks and English tweed defined parts of the collection as well as straight tailoring. Deconstructed blazers and boxy silhouettes featured as menswear influenced the designer profusely. Key aspects which abundantly appeared during the show were metallic silver pieces, full-length silhouettes and pops of pastel blue and fuchsia. The cuts were super clean and chic and the whole event was beautifully executed. Being a collection formed from recycled and/or recyclable materials, we have respect for the brand’s responsibility and future direction.
DZHUS
Award winning designer, Irina Dzhus, is an inspiration who we are proud to say levelled up at BFW. The designer had to flee Ukraine as war broke out and has been taking refuge in multiple cities across Europe. Her visions of fashion focus on transformation which she incorporated brilliantly into her conceptual collection which showcased on Wednesday. Described as utilitarian, however, avant-garde, the collection intertwines the best of practicality and creativity. As a designer she puts political issues at the centre of her work which gives her designs great importance and will be historically significant of the time.
Dzhus created a striking atmosphere which was really powerful to be a part of. The music of chilling voices and clashing orchestra instruments emphasized the severity and weight of meaning the collection held. Models walked eerily slow until they halted in the middle of the runway. Standing face-to-face with Dzhus… the transformation process began. Tension had built, but quickly released as new looks appeared in front of us with an air of amazement, as if by magic.
Images Courtesy of Berlin Fashion Council
The ten individual looks were multi-functional and embraced the importance of sustainable choices. Designs constructed of bag pockets took influence from Dzhus’s personal experience of fleeing her country, capturing the sense of uprooting your life and your lifetime of belongings with you. We thought these designs were spectacularly powerful and purposeful. The collection adopted a neutral monochromatic palette which increased the impact of the designs.
Lou De Bètoly
This French designer has a hold on us and we cannot seem to escape. The tangible creations influenced by surrealist and dreamlike states can’t hook us enough. Her designs are unique and incomparable which made the anticipation for her show sky-high. The edginess of Berlin shines through her delicate Parisian aesthetic, and if you didn’t already know, we love a hybrid style. This brand is thriving right now with the likes of style icon, Dua Lipa, appearing again and again in Lou De Bètoly designs.
The stakes were high in the Casino for Lou de Bètoly on Wednesday, and may we say, they got dealt a royal flush. Taking place in a Berlin Casino, the show started dark and smoky, with heavy breathing amplifying through the speakers. The atmosphere created was dramatic and moody…everyone was gripping to the edges of their seats at what was away to come. Down the flower furnished stairs strutted model after model who began descending their dramatic entwining journeys throughout our tables.
Images Courtesy of Berlin Fashion Council
The collection for AW23 Lou de Bètoly created was stunning. Her punk, surrealist influences were abundantly clear in the designs, and yet the garments created an overall delicate and whimsical aesthetic. Lots of floral detailing featured in her latest looks, in a deconstructed, almost chaotic sense. The dismantled petals strategically covered the model’s modesty as they perched on top of sheer dresses. A lighter Spring palette was evident in her range of looks, which added to the airy and ethereal nature of the collection. We could not take our eyes off of the lace embroidered looks which dripped down the models. A Voir favourite was the netted crochet rose dress. The pink and red crocheted into each other very naturally and created a graceful look. Major trends of bodice cut-outs, veils and fringing also made their way into the set of AW23 looks.
LML Studio
Hauntingly gorgeous. The LML Studio gave us a chilling experience which we can’t shake. The genius designer behind the LML Studio looks, Lucas Meyer-Leclère, has an array of experience across the fashion industry. The product of all this valuable insight and knowledge over the years, is, of course, LML Studio. Having previously worked for major brands such as Chanel and Jimmy Choo, in 2017 he set up LML Studio and started building his own legacy.
Deciding to show his collection in the church which is home to his atelier, he built up a cool essence of mystique around the collection. This was therefore a significant location for the designer as the vision, construction and release of the full collection all took place under the very roof. It was also a creative decision which symbolized the collection’s theme as song of ascent, ‘Nisi Dominus’, from the Bible is the collection’s number one inspiration. As the organ played, models wandered and cameras flashed. The show was theatrical and very performative. Midway through the collection’s presentation, a transgender bride appeared down the aisle, which brought the whole experience to life. As an experience it captured surrealism as well as sentiment.
Images Courtesy of Berlin Fashion Council
The looks were sleek. Men dressed in sophisticated, well-tailored styles slowly made their way down the church aisles. LML Studio’s take on AW23 let gender constraints melt away as feminine inspirations and techniques were brought into menswear. The designer believes letting the identity of the wearer be seen through the clothing. Hand-woven tweeds and fabrics were displayed in an elegant, contemporary fashion. The use of silk braids and recycled organic yarns gave a unique perspective of fashion’s future. The over 30-piece collection was elaborate and in our opinion a stroke of genius.
Words By Erin Wilson
Header Graphics Image By Mia Washbrook
